This is one of a series of articles describing in depth the product that we sell. The reason for these articles is to help you make a more informed decision when purchasing accessories for your photographic needs. If you still have questions about this product after reading this article please feel free to contact us.
The T-Mount system was developed by Tamron in 1957. A common misconception is that the T stands for thread or threaded, but it actually stands for Tamron. The system was developed with the idea of standardizing the mount for 35mm SLR (Single Lens Reflex) cameras lenses. It was thought that the system would reduce costs because photograpers would need only a few lenses and a number of inexpensive adapters to be able to use these lenses on different brands of cameras.
While the idea sounded good on paper, it did not gain wide popularity among lens manufacturers, most likely because they did not like the prospect of selling fewer lenses. The system did catch on however as a way to attach SLR cameras to telescopes, microscopes, enlargers, and bellows attachments.
The thread used on T-Mounts, refered to as the T-thread, is a metric thread 42mm in diameter and having a pitch of 0.75mm. This diameter and pitch have become the industry standard. It should be noted the the T-Mount conection is only a mechanical connection; electronic connections such as autofocus ar not transmitted through a T-Mount adapter.
The T-Mount system is a two part adapter to attach your camera to a telescope or microscope. The first piece is specific to your camera and the second piece is specific to the piece of equipment you are attaching the camera to. Where the two peices join is the standardized 42mm thread. At Plumtree Photo we carry the first piece for your camera. It is recomended that you contact the manufacturer of your telescope or other equipment to find the part you will need to attach to that.
9.12.08
Beware to buy eyepiece items
I just find out one seller separate one eyepiece accessory kit to 3 different items for sale. ( eyepiece, filter and case ). I can buy in store about 109.00 plus free shipping. Those items sell for over 250.00 if you buy from him. I already found too many used items sold for over street price. Pls check the price before bid your maximum price
What Telescope is the best
What telescope is the best one for me?
Although there may not be a definitive answer to the question, the choice can be narrowed down. First examining the available options, and then matching one telescope design to the desired applications may achieve this.
Quite often, the purchase of a first telescope is based on little or no information. Unfortunately, the consumer usually ends up with an inadequate telescope. That is, it will not perform to expectations due to its size, poor optical quality, and inadequate mounting. They are very frustrating to use, and can quash any interest the user may have in exploring the night sky. Generally, these are the typical telescopes found in department stores or camera shops. On the other hand, some people “bite off more than they can chew” when purchasing a first telescope. That is, they may purchase a scope that is too big and cumbersome, or too complicated. Invariably, in both circumstances, the telescope often ends up collecting dust in a closet. To help avoid either of the previous scenarios, consider the information and guidelines listed below when searching for a first scope. Although it is true that larger telescopes will amplify the sky-glow in light-polluted areas more so than smaller scopes, they will also amplify the light emitted from the object itself more, thus providing a better view. Essentially, image contrast is the key issue. Larger telescopes can utilize special filters (known as Light Pollution Reduction filters) more effectively than smaller telescopes, the contrast between the sky background and the object is further improved.Larger telescopes will amplify the sky-glow in light-polluted areas more so than smaller scopes, they will also amplify the light emitted from the object itself more, thus providing a better view. Essentially, image contrast is the key issue. Furthermore, because larger telescopes can utilize special filters (known as Light Pollution Reduction filters) more effectively than smaller telescopes, the contrast between the sky background and the object is further improved. What objects do you want to observe?For those who are interested primarily in viewing the brighter objects, such as Jupiter, Saturn, and the Moon, a small telescope is adequate. For example, a 70mm diameter refractor will provide a pleasing view. If fainter, deep space objects, such as galaxies, nebulae, and star clusters are the objects of choice, a telescope with greater light-gathering ability (larger aperture size) is needed. In such instances, common choices by the novice are 4.5" to 6" diameter reflectors, or 90mm to 100mm diameter refractors, which will provide better views. Overall, however, all things being equal, the larger the aperture size, the brighter and more detailed the object will appear.
Although there may not be a definitive answer to the question, the choice can be narrowed down. First examining the available options, and then matching one telescope design to the desired applications may achieve this.
Quite often, the purchase of a first telescope is based on little or no information. Unfortunately, the consumer usually ends up with an inadequate telescope. That is, it will not perform to expectations due to its size, poor optical quality, and inadequate mounting. They are very frustrating to use, and can quash any interest the user may have in exploring the night sky. Generally, these are the typical telescopes found in department stores or camera shops. On the other hand, some people “bite off more than they can chew” when purchasing a first telescope. That is, they may purchase a scope that is too big and cumbersome, or too complicated. Invariably, in both circumstances, the telescope often ends up collecting dust in a closet. To help avoid either of the previous scenarios, consider the information and guidelines listed below when searching for a first scope. Although it is true that larger telescopes will amplify the sky-glow in light-polluted areas more so than smaller scopes, they will also amplify the light emitted from the object itself more, thus providing a better view. Essentially, image contrast is the key issue. Larger telescopes can utilize special filters (known as Light Pollution Reduction filters) more effectively than smaller telescopes, the contrast between the sky background and the object is further improved.Larger telescopes will amplify the sky-glow in light-polluted areas more so than smaller scopes, they will also amplify the light emitted from the object itself more, thus providing a better view. Essentially, image contrast is the key issue. Furthermore, because larger telescopes can utilize special filters (known as Light Pollution Reduction filters) more effectively than smaller telescopes, the contrast between the sky background and the object is further improved. What objects do you want to observe?For those who are interested primarily in viewing the brighter objects, such as Jupiter, Saturn, and the Moon, a small telescope is adequate. For example, a 70mm diameter refractor will provide a pleasing view. If fainter, deep space objects, such as galaxies, nebulae, and star clusters are the objects of choice, a telescope with greater light-gathering ability (larger aperture size) is needed. In such instances, common choices by the novice are 4.5" to 6" diameter reflectors, or 90mm to 100mm diameter refractors, which will provide better views. Overall, however, all things being equal, the larger the aperture size, the brighter and more detailed the object will appear.
Celestron Powerseeker 60EQ Telescope
As soon as I brought it home I took it out of the box and gasped in awe. It was a high quality peice that looked great. This model has an equatorial mount so you can synchronize it with the celestial pole(poloaris) and it gives you the ability to track objects across the sky.It has a large solid tripod that can be adjusted easily. The two lenses it comes with can magnify objects either 45 or 125 times. When I first took the telescope out with my dad we found the moon and I was amazed at what I could see on the lunar surface at just 45 times magnifacation! The moon took up nearly the entire field of vision at lowest magnifacation and the detail was amazing!Using the other lens was even better I could see craters the maria and all sorts of amazing things. Just a few days ago I used my Night Sky magazine(which is a great magazine by the way) and was able to find Saturn for it is high in the sky right by the beehive cluster and close to Gemini right now. After a few minutes of searching through the low power eyepiece I found it. A bright blob of golden light in the eypiece.Hands trembling I carfully adjusted the focusing nobs and I saw it. Saturn in all its glory was in my eypeice. I could just make out the rings and though it was small it was clear and sharp. I hurredly popped that lens out and put in the more powerful one and I saw Saturn in even more detail. I could see the Cassini division! Fortunetly the atmosphere was coraperating so I could see somthing most would need a large reflector to see. I was amazing and I could see it with so small a telescope. And in my Night Sky magazine it says in the March/April issue that you can see nebulae,galaxies,clusters and amazing things in just low magnifacations such as 30 or 50 times. I can even see M41(the beehive cluster) in just binoculars! I saw that cluster when I was looking for saturn.So if you see this telescpope even at 50 or a 100 dollars buy it and you wont be disapointed.
TELESCOPES
The key to purchasing a good telescope is understand what a telescope really does - not what it does not do. Telescopes do not use magnifying lenses to make distant stars and planets visible. Magnifying lenses do nothing to help you see the sky. A telescope does one thing only - it gathers light! The sun is so bright even distant planets get a good dose of light and they reflect it back. So much reflected light, it makes them appear as stars. The larger the opening of a telescope the more light it gathers and the better the image a person can see when the light is concentrated into one spot. A telescope concentrates this light in one of two ways. Light is gathered either through a lense in the front of it (Refractor type), or via a mirror in the end of it which is curved in such away it reflects it back onto a concentrated spot on a smaller second mirror which then sends it out through the eye piece (Reflector type).
Astronomy items listed anonimously foreign countries
Buying telescope accessories and other optics on Ebay can be a great way to get excellent equipment at low prices. But beware of listings that have all the "look and feel" of a USA seller when in fact they are foreign. Recently I bought an item that was listed as being in Buffalo, NY. When I won the auction, I was directed to send my $$ to a Canadian address. When I did so, the merchandise arrived with postage and origination in Hong Kong!
I am not implying that anything shady was ongoing. My item was as advertised. But I would have been up the creek without a paddle if the auction was a scam. You cannot reclaim lost money from a seller on the other side of the world. Ebay has no rule requiring foreign sellers to disclose their product's shipping point or where their office is located.
My advice? If the item is more money than you can afford to lose, let's say $50. Email the seller before you bid and ascertain that it is in the USA. If not, and you have a very high feedback rating, insist the seller send you the merchandise first, and then pay when it arrives.
Afterall, it is not carved in stone than payment must precede shipping of goods. Mutual trust is what keeps Ebay working.
I am not implying that anything shady was ongoing. My item was as advertised. But I would have been up the creek without a paddle if the auction was a scam. You cannot reclaim lost money from a seller on the other side of the world. Ebay has no rule requiring foreign sellers to disclose their product's shipping point or where their office is located.
My advice? If the item is more money than you can afford to lose, let's say $50. Email the seller before you bid and ascertain that it is in the USA. If not, and you have a very high feedback rating, insist the seller send you the merchandise first, and then pay when it arrives.
Afterall, it is not carved in stone than payment must precede shipping of goods. Mutual trust is what keeps Ebay working.
Telescope Buying Guide
1. As the observer you will need to answer the following questions
What do I want to use the telescope for? Daytime? Nightime? Sun? Planets? Comets? Stars? Galaxies?
Where will I be using it? City? Suburbs? Country?
Will I be carrying it often? Will I be transporting it often?
Will I be taking night-time pictures with it?
Will I be using it mostly for fun or for some amateur scientific exploration?
2. Background for the questions
If you will be carrying it often you will need to decide how much weight is sufficient to tire you out. Twenty-five pounds is enough to tire out anyone if it's more than 30 yards from the car or home. If you want it for sports events or nature photography then it better be very light.
The fainter the object is that you want to observer the larger the primary lens or mirror should be. Also if there is a fair amount of light pollution, there might be too much light scatter to make some object visible at all.
The mount and optical design are important, but these are secondary to the light gathering capabilities of the telescope and the magnification capabilities of the eye-piece system.
Decide whether you will be carrying the telescope once a day or evening or whether you can keep it setup in one place for a while. Setting up a telescope takes a bit of time.
Galileo had a telescope that was weaker than some of the small finder scopes attached to the larger telescopes - so any telescope on the market today can be used for fun or science.
3. How to make your choice
Observing Sun Spots (indirectly!!!) can be done with a small refractor (1 1/2" - 40x) bought at a children's store - provided you have a good projector attached.
Most night-time observing requires less than 200x magnification, so if you plan to carry your telescope and mount around go for the largest telescope and mount you can carry. For the average person this would be in the 3" to 5" range for the primary mirror. Some of the lower end telescopes are named "sporting" scopes.
If you plan to do a lot of night-time city observing and you won't be travelling regularly with your telescope, buy the largest telescope you can. This would be anywhere in the range of 6" to 16".
4. New or used
You can find some great deals for used equipment, but you can also find some great deals for broken used equipment. Even new equipment might have bolts that are too tight or too loose, or a mount where one leg doesn't slide out properly. You need to be aware of all the moving pieces and make sure the system works as a complete tool. Purchasing without touching should be discouraged. And at least there needs to be full disclosure of problems and a return policy.
When buying it, remember to ask: Can I carry it as I will during my viewing sessions? Is it powerful enough for the viewing I want to be doing? Is it easy to setup and take down if I am not leaving it in one place?
5. Eye-pieces
The eye-piece is what gives you the magnification. You calculate the magnification of the system by dividing the focal length of the primary telescope mirror/lens by the focal length of the eye-piece . For example a telescope primary with a 2000 mm focal length and an eye-piece with a 20 mm focal length with produce a magnification of 100x.
NOTE WELL: Unless you have bought a super-scope and you will be observing from the top of a mountain beside a tranquil body of water, during a power-grid failure, don't waist your money on an eye-piece that promises to deliver more than 300x magnification with your primary mirror/lens.
6. Having fun
I promise you that once you look at Jupiter or Saturn, or look at a projection of a Sun spot you will be hooked on Astronomy. Don't kill the passion that you have by going overboard with a top-of-the-line system right off the bat. A system that takes too long to setup or is too heavy to move or carry, or even one that is too expensive may be a quick reason to stop observing. There stars have been there for a billion years - they'll wait for you to make a good decision on a first telescope.
7. Checklist
main telescope (size based on carrying, viewing)
several lenses giving you some maginfication possibilities for 40x, 80x, 120x
a rugged mount like Alt-Az for viewing or Equatorial for star tracking or photography
What do I want to use the telescope for? Daytime? Nightime? Sun? Planets? Comets? Stars? Galaxies?
Where will I be using it? City? Suburbs? Country?
Will I be carrying it often? Will I be transporting it often?
Will I be taking night-time pictures with it?
Will I be using it mostly for fun or for some amateur scientific exploration?
2. Background for the questions
If you will be carrying it often you will need to decide how much weight is sufficient to tire you out. Twenty-five pounds is enough to tire out anyone if it's more than 30 yards from the car or home. If you want it for sports events or nature photography then it better be very light.
The fainter the object is that you want to observer the larger the primary lens or mirror should be. Also if there is a fair amount of light pollution, there might be too much light scatter to make some object visible at all.
The mount and optical design are important, but these are secondary to the light gathering capabilities of the telescope and the magnification capabilities of the eye-piece system.
Decide whether you will be carrying the telescope once a day or evening or whether you can keep it setup in one place for a while. Setting up a telescope takes a bit of time.
Galileo had a telescope that was weaker than some of the small finder scopes attached to the larger telescopes - so any telescope on the market today can be used for fun or science.
3. How to make your choice
Observing Sun Spots (indirectly!!!) can be done with a small refractor (1 1/2" - 40x) bought at a children's store - provided you have a good projector attached.
Most night-time observing requires less than 200x magnification, so if you plan to carry your telescope and mount around go for the largest telescope and mount you can carry. For the average person this would be in the 3" to 5" range for the primary mirror. Some of the lower end telescopes are named "sporting" scopes.
If you plan to do a lot of night-time city observing and you won't be travelling regularly with your telescope, buy the largest telescope you can. This would be anywhere in the range of 6" to 16".
4. New or used
You can find some great deals for used equipment, but you can also find some great deals for broken used equipment. Even new equipment might have bolts that are too tight or too loose, or a mount where one leg doesn't slide out properly. You need to be aware of all the moving pieces and make sure the system works as a complete tool. Purchasing without touching should be discouraged. And at least there needs to be full disclosure of problems and a return policy.
When buying it, remember to ask: Can I carry it as I will during my viewing sessions? Is it powerful enough for the viewing I want to be doing? Is it easy to setup and take down if I am not leaving it in one place?
5. Eye-pieces
The eye-piece is what gives you the magnification. You calculate the magnification of the system by dividing the focal length of the primary telescope mirror/lens by the focal length of the eye-piece . For example a telescope primary with a 2000 mm focal length and an eye-piece with a 20 mm focal length with produce a magnification of 100x.
NOTE WELL: Unless you have bought a super-scope and you will be observing from the top of a mountain beside a tranquil body of water, during a power-grid failure, don't waist your money on an eye-piece that promises to deliver more than 300x magnification with your primary mirror/lens.
6. Having fun
I promise you that once you look at Jupiter or Saturn, or look at a projection of a Sun spot you will be hooked on Astronomy. Don't kill the passion that you have by going overboard with a top-of-the-line system right off the bat. A system that takes too long to setup or is too heavy to move or carry, or even one that is too expensive may be a quick reason to stop observing. There stars have been there for a billion years - they'll wait for you to make a good decision on a first telescope.
7. Checklist
main telescope (size based on carrying, viewing)
several lenses giving you some maginfication possibilities for 40x, 80x, 120x
a rugged mount like Alt-Az for viewing or Equatorial for star tracking or photography
TELESCOPES FOR KIDS
Need some advice on which is the best scope to buy for your budding astronomer. At TaxiMarket, we've sold more telescopes and accessories than any other eBay dealer. With more than 35,000 positive feedbacks, we're here to help.
Kids 6 - 11
We've got little telescopes for little people. For our youngest stargazers, we recommend smaller and simpler telescopes that anyone can use. Of course, very young children are going to need supervision with any telescope, but these telescopes are so easy to use that even the youngest children will have a great time exploring the universe.
80mm Portable Telescopes -- no doubt this is the best telescope for young kids. Portable, light-weight, and easy to set up, this telescope is not just a toy. It provides very nice views of the Moon, Saturn's rings, Jupiter and much more. Plus it is ideal for daytime use -- you'd be surprised the fun things your kids will do with the scopes during the day! Comes with a carrying case.
50mm Telescope -- if you're on a tight budget, consider a basic 50mm telescope. This is the "classic" first scope for a young child, and is fairly light weight and easy to handle. Comes included with a full-size tripod, so the little ones may need some help setting
Kids 11 - 13
For older kids there are more options. The trick here is to get a scope you're older children will use and learn to love, without buying something so big and complex that they'll put it in the closet and never use it again. The scopes we highlight here are easy-to use, yet still powerful enough to give great eye-popping space views.
3 Inch Reflector Telescope -- We love our great 3 inch reflector telescopes -- a scope big enough to get them excited about astronomy, but still easy enough to handle and have a ton of fun.
80mm Portable Telescopes -- True, this portable telescope is great for little kids, but it is also an excellent scope for pre-teens. It is so portable (and comes with a carrying case) that it is perfect for stashing in the trunk or taking on camping trips, summer vacations or over to a friend's house.
90mm Portable Telescope -- This is really the "best buy" telescope for kids of all ages. This 90mm is extremely powerful, but still simple to set-up and use. Pre-teens and teens alike will have hours of unsupervised space viewing with this great instrument. As an added bonus, with right-side-up viewing, it is ideal for daytime use as a spotting scope.
Kids 14 & up
Spaced crazed teens will flip over our larger 4.5" telescopes. These are among our favorites for adults too. With teens who ware more serious about astronomy, you're ready to tackle a telescope that takes a little more effort and patience in order to use, but payoff with incredible views and higher-end functionality like star tracking. A little less bulky, but nearly as powerful, check out the 70mm refractor -- a great value buy.
4.5 Inch Telescopes -- Well, this is a serious telescope for serious young people. But if your teenager wants to explore the heavens and have an instrument that will last a lifetime, we recommend this terrific telescope.
70mm Telescope -- Probably the most well-rounded refractor telescope we offer, the 70mm gives great views both at night and during the day. But it is a serious astronomer's instrument with an "equatorial mounting" that lets you track the stars as they move through the night sky. Your kids will love it.
90mm Portable Telescope -- This is really the "best buy" telescope for kids of all ages. This 90mm is extremely powerful, but still simple to set-up and use. Pre-teens and teens alike will have hours of unsupervised space viewing with this great instrument. As an added bonus, with right-side-up viewing, it is ideal for daytime use as a spotting scope.
Be sure to visit the TaxiMarket eBay Store for great values on telescopes from eBay's #1 telescope dealer.
Kids 6 - 11
We've got little telescopes for little people. For our youngest stargazers, we recommend smaller and simpler telescopes that anyone can use. Of course, very young children are going to need supervision with any telescope, but these telescopes are so easy to use that even the youngest children will have a great time exploring the universe.
80mm Portable Telescopes -- no doubt this is the best telescope for young kids. Portable, light-weight, and easy to set up, this telescope is not just a toy. It provides very nice views of the Moon, Saturn's rings, Jupiter and much more. Plus it is ideal for daytime use -- you'd be surprised the fun things your kids will do with the scopes during the day! Comes with a carrying case.
50mm Telescope -- if you're on a tight budget, consider a basic 50mm telescope. This is the "classic" first scope for a young child, and is fairly light weight and easy to handle. Comes included with a full-size tripod, so the little ones may need some help setting
Kids 11 - 13
For older kids there are more options. The trick here is to get a scope you're older children will use and learn to love, without buying something so big and complex that they'll put it in the closet and never use it again. The scopes we highlight here are easy-to use, yet still powerful enough to give great eye-popping space views.
3 Inch Reflector Telescope -- We love our great 3 inch reflector telescopes -- a scope big enough to get them excited about astronomy, but still easy enough to handle and have a ton of fun.
80mm Portable Telescopes -- True, this portable telescope is great for little kids, but it is also an excellent scope for pre-teens. It is so portable (and comes with a carrying case) that it is perfect for stashing in the trunk or taking on camping trips, summer vacations or over to a friend's house.
90mm Portable Telescope -- This is really the "best buy" telescope for kids of all ages. This 90mm is extremely powerful, but still simple to set-up and use. Pre-teens and teens alike will have hours of unsupervised space viewing with this great instrument. As an added bonus, with right-side-up viewing, it is ideal for daytime use as a spotting scope.
Kids 14 & up
Spaced crazed teens will flip over our larger 4.5" telescopes. These are among our favorites for adults too. With teens who ware more serious about astronomy, you're ready to tackle a telescope that takes a little more effort and patience in order to use, but payoff with incredible views and higher-end functionality like star tracking. A little less bulky, but nearly as powerful, check out the 70mm refractor -- a great value buy.
4.5 Inch Telescopes -- Well, this is a serious telescope for serious young people. But if your teenager wants to explore the heavens and have an instrument that will last a lifetime, we recommend this terrific telescope.
70mm Telescope -- Probably the most well-rounded refractor telescope we offer, the 70mm gives great views both at night and during the day. But it is a serious astronomer's instrument with an "equatorial mounting" that lets you track the stars as they move through the night sky. Your kids will love it.
90mm Portable Telescope -- This is really the "best buy" telescope for kids of all ages. This 90mm is extremely powerful, but still simple to set-up and use. Pre-teens and teens alike will have hours of unsupervised space viewing with this great instrument. As an added bonus, with right-side-up viewing, it is ideal for daytime use as a spotting scope.
Be sure to visit the TaxiMarket eBay Store for great values on telescopes from eBay's #1 telescope dealer.
A Short Biography
Carl Zeiss (September 11, 1816 – December 3, 1888) was an optician commonly known for the company he founded, Zeiss. Zeiss himself also made a few contributions to lens manufacturing that have aided the modern production of lenses. Raised in Weimar, Germany, he became a notable lens maker in the 1840s when he created high quality lenses that were "wide open", or in other words, had a very large aperture range that allowed for very clear images. He did this in the city of Jena at a self opened workshop, where he started his lens making career. At first his lenses were only used in the production of microscopes but when cameras were invented, his company (Zeiss) began manufacturing high quality lenses for cameras. He died on December 3, 1888 in Jena Germany, the very place that he began his life of lenses.
Today, the company he founded produces some of the finest quality opticals available in the world. The Zeiss name is synonymous with quality and state of the art performance. From Nikon to NASA, Zeiss has been branded as a mark of quality craftmanship that is recognized by photographers and scientists the world
Today, the company he founded produces some of the finest quality opticals available in the world. The Zeiss name is synonymous with quality and state of the art performance. From Nikon to NASA, Zeiss has been branded as a mark of quality craftmanship that is recognized by photographers and scientists the world
EDMUND ASTROSCAN 2001
The ORIGINAL Edmund Scientific Astroscan (first called Astroscan 2001) was an inexpensive, high-performance telescope that is easy-to-use, maintenance-free and completely portable. Its wide field of view, beautiful images and ease of use make it an excellent telescope for beginner and expert stargazers alike.The heart of the Astroscan is its 1/8 wave, Edmund USA over coated primary parabolic mirror. (ground, polished and over coated in U.S.A. Edmund Optics Facility to it's optical limit) Where other telescopes use an inexpensive spherical mirror, the Astroscan's parabolic mirror has a deeper, more complex figure that focuses all incoming light rays to the same point. This results in crisp, clear images without any of distorting effects of spherical mirror aberration.The Astroscan is a Newtonian Rich-Field reflector that provides a breathtaking 3 degrees (or six full moons) of field, literally making this instrument an open window to the universe. The wide field-of-view makes finding astronomical objects far easier than with other telescopes and allows for the best views of deep sky objects, or groups of objects, that won't even fit into the fields of other telescopes.With the optional Barlow Lens (available separately or included in the Deluxe Package), you can view Saturn's rings and the Cloud bands of Jupiter. The Astroscan really excels, though, when you turn it to deep sky objects like galaxies, nebulae and star clusters...the Pleiades are truly stunning! At higher magnifications, the Astroscan's images are crisp, clear and powerful.The Astroscan has a unique design that won it the 1976 Industrial Design Award. Its creative design has eliminated the cumbersome and complicated mounts typical of most telescopes. Simply place its padded base on any firm, flat surface and you are immediately ready to observe. Its motions are positive and natural, with nothing to tighten or adjust. It's simple enough for a child to use the first time out.In 2000 Edmund Scientific was purchased by Science Kit and Boreal Laboratories, a western New York based science supply company. Science Kit and Boreal Laboratories is part of a group of companies that provide science supplies to elementary, middle, and high schools as well as colleges and universities. This group falls under the unofficial umbrella "VWR Education" and are owned by VWR International, a multi-national conglomerate with offices in India, China, Europe, Canada and the United States. They are no longer affliated with Edmund Optics Inc. As of 2007, online sales now make up the bulk of Edmund Scientific's revenues. The company still sells telescopes, microscopes, surplus optics, magnets and fresnel lenses, but the emphasis is on science-themed toys, novelty items, gifts, and gadgets
Quick Guide on Fraud Auctions for New Ebay'ers
Here's a quick guide on "red flags" to look for in fraud auctions (typically the higher priced auctions). It's fairly easy to detect these frauds and report them to Ebay if you know some simple things to watch for. 5 simple Red Flags... 1. User ID kept private. 2. Contact seller by an email link before bidding or for info (not through Ebay system) in the text of the description. This is pretty much a DEAD give-away it's fraud! 3. Very cheap or free shipping for large heavy items. 4. "One day" auction only, vice for a week or so. 5. Photos and descriptions were previously seen from other REAL auctions. There are LOTS more fraud warnings but these 5 should be enough to keep you from bidding on the item. See other guides here about scams, etc. they explain quite a bit of the details but again, these simple 5 are serious red flags. Also be a good Ebay'er and use the Security Center button on the bottom of the auction page to inform Ebay of the fraud auction. And ya know what they say... if it's too good to be true, it probably is!
Blue 3" Reflector Telescope Kids Present Toy No Reserve
THIS TELESCOPE COMES LOADED WITH THE FOLLOWING FEATURES & ACCESSORIES:
76mm (3 inches) concave objective mirror
Focal Length : 700mm
20mm Eyepiece
12mm Eyepiece
4mm Eyepiece
2x Barlow Lens
Moon Filter
Large Collapseable Tripod with Accessory Tray
Alt-Az Type Telescope Mount
Dust Free Eyepiece Cleaning Cloth
Map of the Surface of the Moon & Giant Solar System Poster
76mm (3 inches) concave objective mirror
Focal Length : 700mm
20mm Eyepiece
12mm Eyepiece
4mm Eyepiece
2x Barlow Lens
Moon Filter
Large Collapseable Tripod with Accessory Tray
Alt-Az Type Telescope Mount
Dust Free Eyepiece Cleaning Cloth
Map of the Surface of the Moon & Giant Solar System Poster
Telescopes 101 -- A BEGINNER'S GUIDE
Buying a telescope is easy! Especially when you have help. If you want to learn a little about telescopes and space, this "Telescopes 101" guide should get your mind grounded before you start exploring the stars. So let's learn. . . .
Telescopes make space objects look brighter
That's basically it, and it's the most important thing about telescopes. Telescopes gather light from space,and blast it into your eyes so you can get a fabulous, astonishing look at star clusters, dual-star systems, distant galaxies, and details of the Moon or Saturn's rings in ways you can never see with the naked eye because the objects are too small and way to dark.
Telescopes make space objects look bigger too
Yes, telescopes magnify objects, that's true. But magnification is really not that important. Just a little bit of magnification is enough to see all kinds of great space stuff. But boosting light gathering power is where it's at in buying a telescope The more light you can suck down from the sky, the more you'll see. Don't worry about magnification, just all telescopes have enough of that -- go for the light gathering power.
Bigger is better
At least in telescopes, that's true. The bigger the main opening of the tube, then the more light the telescope can collect. More light means you see more. The size of the telescope's main opening is called the 'aperture" and it is typically measured in inches or millimeters. In just about all cases, the larger the aperture, or opening, the better the space viewing will be. Our biggest telescope has an 8" opening and is great for backyard observing.
Mirrors vs Glass
How does it all work? Well, telescopes gather straight beams of light and focus them on a single point. This magnifies what you're looking at and makes it seem larger and brighter. Telescopes either use a round, bowl shaped mirror to focus the light, or a glass lens to do the job, or a combination of both. Depending on what you're looking for, you might consider one or the other.
Telescopes make space objects look brighter
That's basically it, and it's the most important thing about telescopes. Telescopes gather light from space,and blast it into your eyes so you can get a fabulous, astonishing look at star clusters, dual-star systems, distant galaxies, and details of the Moon or Saturn's rings in ways you can never see with the naked eye because the objects are too small and way to dark.
Telescopes make space objects look bigger too
Yes, telescopes magnify objects, that's true. But magnification is really not that important. Just a little bit of magnification is enough to see all kinds of great space stuff. But boosting light gathering power is where it's at in buying a telescope The more light you can suck down from the sky, the more you'll see. Don't worry about magnification, just all telescopes have enough of that -- go for the light gathering power.
Bigger is better
At least in telescopes, that's true. The bigger the main opening of the tube, then the more light the telescope can collect. More light means you see more. The size of the telescope's main opening is called the 'aperture" and it is typically measured in inches or millimeters. In just about all cases, the larger the aperture, or opening, the better the space viewing will be. Our biggest telescope has an 8" opening and is great for backyard observing.
Mirrors vs Glass
How does it all work? Well, telescopes gather straight beams of light and focus them on a single point. This magnifies what you're looking at and makes it seem larger and brighter. Telescopes either use a round, bowl shaped mirror to focus the light, or a glass lens to do the job, or a combination of both. Depending on what you're looking for, you might consider one or the other.
Your first telescope
Buying your first telescope can be a terrible experience. There are so many out there. And so different. And all these numbers. Want to know what to look for and avoid buying the marketing humbug instead of the real thing? Read on if you want to know.Size matters, honeyFirst of all realise what is the main function of any telescope. Mind you it's not magnifying - even if the marketing people would like you to believe so. No - the telescope's main function is to gather light. Grasp as many photons coming from that faint and whispy nebula dozens of thousands of light years away. Or the ones coming from a galaxy billions light years away. Some of these objects are the size of the moon or even a lot larger. So ... you don' t need to magnify them. It's the difference between your eye's pupil (dilated at night to something in range of 8mm) and the telescope objective or mirror diameter (also known as the aperture). It is this diameter that is responsible for gathering light and pumping it to your eye (and as for the pumping.... never attempt to look at the sun with any kind of device that has not been designed for such purpose. Telescopes, binoculars will pump all this energy down into your brain frying the eye on the way there). And if you see a 70mm telescope advertised to magnify 700x (even, or especially when it is outfitted with barlows and eyepieces to that effect) go elsewhere. A very simple rule of thumb for maximum magnification is that for any given aperture the maximum magnification you can get on a good night is slightly more than twice the aperture diameter in mm (three times for good and pricey apochromatic refractors). So that 70mm scope will go up to about 150x magnification. After that you will just see a bigger blob with less details.The next big thing - who you are, where you are, and what you want to look atAnd this is where simplicity ends... after all, there are so many different types of scopes out there. Various constructions. Various designs. So what is the next determining factor. It is what you want to do with the scope. If it is to go after that good looking neighbour buy small azimuth mounted refractor. It will also show the Moon and it's craters, and if you are lucky you might spot Jupiter and the galilean moons before they put you in for spying on other people. But if you are serious about looking at the sky think of how you want to observe. Are you going to look at the sky, or do you want to eventually photograph it. Where are you observing from. Do you have to drive 50 miles to get a clear, black sky. Or do Milky Way shines in your backyard? Looking at these issues will help you decide first about the mount of the telescope and then on the type. If you live in a city, and need to drive to countryside to see black sky you will want a portable telescope of smaller size, and less weight. If you are lucky to have Milky Way as the only neighbour in your backyard you may be better off with something much larger. If you do not plan on doing any astrophotography - a huge aperture telescope on a dobsonian mout is the best way to go (and for the citydwellers you might consider truss-tube dobsonian which will not make you choose between a scope and friends or family). If, on the other hand, you want to go into astrophotography eventually - think about equatorially mounted scope that you can add motors to at some point. Nice looking GoTo telescopes on the altazimuth mount (the fork type, or assymetrical fork) are... suprise... not so great for astrophotography if they don't come with something called equatorial wedge, and... not so great for visual observations since you pay huge lot of bucks for the electronics and get a small glass to go with the 40,000 object database (out of which you may actually be able to see 50 or 100 objects). So you are probably better of with a simple reflector (for visual) or refractor (for photographic) on a simple equatorial mount. Just make sure it is a sturdy mount. The best telescope on a flimsy mount will show you nothing but wobbling, hopping and whizzing blips of light with no sense.Long, medium or shortAnd finally the construction. If you want high contrast, high magnification images of planets - forget newtonians and get a long refractor or a maksutov. But also forget the deep sky wonders. But remember - there are less then ten interesting objects you will be able to observe visually with an average telescope of this type. So, unless you are are planetary freak go elsewhere. If you do not care for high contrast, but want to SEE more of the deep space - buy aperture, buy a newtonian reflector. It is usually huge, uncompromising, making your trips to the country in one car a thing of a past ;). There is also a third way - a short refractor. These have been either expensive or optically inferior in the past but recent technological advances made designing them easier and the new ones are usually great - more compact than either long refractors (with usually tha same amount of chromatic distortion) or newtons (with better constrast and sharpness than newtons). And if you have a heap of money and want a big and compact telescope consider a Schmidt-Cassegrain. But only when you know that spending nights outside is something you really wnat to do for the rest of your life :)
Beginners Guide to buying a decent telescope.
First Things FirstThis guide is not going to be a long extensive look at what a telsecope is, and what you can see. It's just a buying guide - You should always do your own research before attempting to buy a telescope. astromart is an excellent starting point. I know allot of established amateur astronomers will tell you that aperture is king so get the biggest scope you can offord. While this is true it's not always a good idea to go out and buy that 8" scope right off the bat. First off you should do some research and learn about what your going to be buying before you go out and spend your hard earned money. If your anything like me your anxious to get started and take that first look, or perhaps that first look in a long time at the wonders that our universe holds. Stop right now and breath - it's not going anywhere and you have the rest of your life to find interesting objects in the sky. First rule of thumb - Avoid those no name telescopes you see listed all over the place. They are cheap for a reason and the old saying "You get what you pay for" is true x2 in amateur astronomy. But there is a bend in this rule. Most decent used scopes with a brand names such as Orion, Meade, Celestron, and even Vixon will go for a fraction of their original cost. I have managed to pick up a 10" Orion dob for just under $200 which is a fraction of it's orignal $650 price tag. Best thing to do is shop around, and do be to quick to bid on the first decent scope that comes along. Take your time because there is always a better deal just around the corner. When you finally settle on a target check out the reviews before even attempting to bid and make sure that what your getting is in fact worth your time. Read the description carefully and ask allot of questions - Besure that every part is there, and the person actually knows what they are talking about. I can't tell you how many times that I have bought a telescope and when it arrived I was missing parts! In a few cases I have order from people either new, or have no idea about what they are talking about. Always make sure that you are getting what you are paying for before you bid. What size scope is best for the beginner?In all honesty a 4.5" dobsonian telescope provides decent views of the planets and a few other objects. However it does not provide enough detail for someone to remain interested for long periods of time. A 5" or better yet a 6" will offer you some very vivid views with some decent eye pieces that will dazzle you for quite sometime. And of course anything larger will gather more light, and therefore offer you better, deeper, and bigger views! But don't be so hasty - if you cannot afford a larger scope go with what you can afford because once you see what it can do you will cherish it. For example I have a 60mm Tasco that I bought for $20 and with it can identify Saturn by it's rings.While and or pershaps after you have purchased you telescope you should be looking at some decent eye pieces (again research is key). I reccement for the beginner a 25mm for wider views and for finding those hard to find objects; a 10mm for once you have found what you want to look at, and a x2 Barlow for doubling the power of your eye pieces. Most scopes will come with these or simular pieces, but just in case these will suffice in the beginning. Lastly don't bid too soon - all your doing is driving up the price. Wait, and then wait some more. Just because your not winning right now, does not mean that you will not win in the end.
How to Buy a Telescope on eBay
This guide is aimed at the beginner who is looking to buy his or her first telescope. I'm assuming you know little about telescopes. My mission is to give you as much information as I can as quickly as I can so I'll be revising and adding information as I have the opportunity to edit it. Let's get started.
There are two kinds of telescopes: refractors and reflectors. Both come in a number of variations, some of which are quite exotic and expensive.
All telescopes have three key components that each have a key measurement: The objective (and its aperture), the tube (and its focal length) and the eyepiece (and its focal length).
There are two other important components: The finder scope is a smaller (but wider view) scope attached to the main tube to help in initially locating objects. Astronomical scopes require a mount, which is usually connected to a tripod, although spotting scopes and monoculars are frequently handheld. An astronomical telescope without a mount (but sometimes with an eyepiece and/or finder scope attached) is called an optical tube assembly (OTA).
The aperture (size) of the OBJECTIVE determines the light gathering power of the telescope. The objective is the big lens on the front end of a refractor and the big mirror at the back end of a reflector.
A REFRACTOR is the "classic" design that probably comes to your mind when you hear the word "telescope". Big lens on one end, (the objective) and a little lens at the other end. This little lens is the eyepiece through which you view what you're looking at. This is the design that is said to have been invented by Gallileo.
In the past I've said to "Forget about refractors." That's because it's surprisingly difficult and expensive to make a quality refractor. The problem is that the way refractor obectives bend light causes the different wavelengths (i.e., colors) to bend at different angles. This causes a problem called "coma", which is a rainbow aura around objects like stars and planets. Achromat refractors use a second lens to partially correct the coma problem, adding to the cost. The apochromat refractor adds yet another corrective lens at even greater expense. However, if you're particularly interested in viewing the moon and planets (for which refractors excel) as opposed to deep space objects and you have a generous budget, a refractor might be your best choice.
I still believe, however, that a REFLECTOR is the best type of scope for most beginners. The objective in a Newtonian (as in Isaac) relector, the simplest kind, is a mirror at the bottom of a big tube, whose front end is open. The mirror is curved and refects the image back into a secondary mirror suspended near the top of the tube. The secondary mirror reflects the image into an eyepiece that sticks out perpendicular from the main tube near the top of the tube. Yes, the secondary is an obstruction but you don't actually see its silhouette when you look through the eyepiece. It merely dims the overall view.
Here are some quick facts:
Magnification is determined by dividing the focal length of the main tube by the focal length of the eyepiece. (Any good ad will give you the focal length of the tube and any eyepieces included.) For example: A scope has a focal length of 1,000 mm (1 meter, about 39 inches). If you drop in a 25mm eyepiece, magnification will be 40x (1,000 / 25 = 40). Drop in a 10mm eyepiece and magnification will be 100x. You can always buy more eyepieces.
So if magnification is dependent on focal length, what does increased aperture get you? Compare a 4" aperture scope with an 8" aperture scope. If they both have a 1,000 mm focal length with 20 mm eyepieces, they'll both magnify the image by 50 times. However, the 8" scope, with twice the diameter of the 4" scope will give you an image four times brighter. Light gathering ability increases by the square of the radius. Objects that are barely visible in a four inch scope will be quite bright in an eight inch scope. By tradition, the aperture of some kinds of scopes is given in inches while others are measured in millimeters. (One inch = 25.4 mm).
Most scopes use standard 1.25" (width) eyepieces. Different brands and designs can be used interchangeably. Some scopes use 2" eyepieces. These usually have adapters so they can also use 1.25" eyepieces. (Another, less common size is 0.96 inches.)
Despite the outlandish promises that may appear on a scope's box (such outlandish promises being a good indicator that the scope is junk) the maximum usable magnification is about 50x the aperture measured in inches or twice the aperture measured in millimeters. For example, a 5" scope is good for a maximum of about 250x. A 90 mm scope is good for about 180x.
Maximum magnification does not always provide the best view. For a given aperture you can't magically increase the amount of light the scope gathers. What does this mean? The greater the magnification you use, the dimmer the view will be. Think about it: If you take the same amount of light and use it to make a bigger image, the image has to get dimmer.
Forget about seeing views like the gorgeous photos that illustrate the boxes of some scopes. They're generally taken by giant scopes and they're made up by overlaying dozens, sometimes hundreds of repeated exposures. And each exposure may have lasted many minutes or even hours. Remember learning about the rods and cones in your eyes in junior high school science? The rods, being much more numerous and more sensitive to light, provide most of your night vision. But they're much less sensitive to color than the cones are. So the images you will see will be pale with only a hint of color.
If you can't afford to spend at least $200 on a scope consider buying a good pair of 10 x 50 binoculars for as little as half that. (The "10" refers to the magnification, which is usually fixed in binoculars; the "50" refers to the size of the objectives, 50mm.) There are whole books written on naked eye and binocular star gazing and binoculars are a great way to get into the hobby. As a bonus if the interest in astronomy wanes the binos will still be good for hiking, camping, bird watching and so on
There are two kinds of telescopes: refractors and reflectors. Both come in a number of variations, some of which are quite exotic and expensive.
All telescopes have three key components that each have a key measurement: The objective (and its aperture), the tube (and its focal length) and the eyepiece (and its focal length).
There are two other important components: The finder scope is a smaller (but wider view) scope attached to the main tube to help in initially locating objects. Astronomical scopes require a mount, which is usually connected to a tripod, although spotting scopes and monoculars are frequently handheld. An astronomical telescope without a mount (but sometimes with an eyepiece and/or finder scope attached) is called an optical tube assembly (OTA).
The aperture (size) of the OBJECTIVE determines the light gathering power of the telescope. The objective is the big lens on the front end of a refractor and the big mirror at the back end of a reflector.
A REFRACTOR is the "classic" design that probably comes to your mind when you hear the word "telescope". Big lens on one end, (the objective) and a little lens at the other end. This little lens is the eyepiece through which you view what you're looking at. This is the design that is said to have been invented by Gallileo.
In the past I've said to "Forget about refractors." That's because it's surprisingly difficult and expensive to make a quality refractor. The problem is that the way refractor obectives bend light causes the different wavelengths (i.e., colors) to bend at different angles. This causes a problem called "coma", which is a rainbow aura around objects like stars and planets. Achromat refractors use a second lens to partially correct the coma problem, adding to the cost. The apochromat refractor adds yet another corrective lens at even greater expense. However, if you're particularly interested in viewing the moon and planets (for which refractors excel) as opposed to deep space objects and you have a generous budget, a refractor might be your best choice.
I still believe, however, that a REFLECTOR is the best type of scope for most beginners. The objective in a Newtonian (as in Isaac) relector, the simplest kind, is a mirror at the bottom of a big tube, whose front end is open. The mirror is curved and refects the image back into a secondary mirror suspended near the top of the tube. The secondary mirror reflects the image into an eyepiece that sticks out perpendicular from the main tube near the top of the tube. Yes, the secondary is an obstruction but you don't actually see its silhouette when you look through the eyepiece. It merely dims the overall view.
Here are some quick facts:
Magnification is determined by dividing the focal length of the main tube by the focal length of the eyepiece. (Any good ad will give you the focal length of the tube and any eyepieces included.) For example: A scope has a focal length of 1,000 mm (1 meter, about 39 inches). If you drop in a 25mm eyepiece, magnification will be 40x (1,000 / 25 = 40). Drop in a 10mm eyepiece and magnification will be 100x. You can always buy more eyepieces.
So if magnification is dependent on focal length, what does increased aperture get you? Compare a 4" aperture scope with an 8" aperture scope. If they both have a 1,000 mm focal length with 20 mm eyepieces, they'll both magnify the image by 50 times. However, the 8" scope, with twice the diameter of the 4" scope will give you an image four times brighter. Light gathering ability increases by the square of the radius. Objects that are barely visible in a four inch scope will be quite bright in an eight inch scope. By tradition, the aperture of some kinds of scopes is given in inches while others are measured in millimeters. (One inch = 25.4 mm).
Most scopes use standard 1.25" (width) eyepieces. Different brands and designs can be used interchangeably. Some scopes use 2" eyepieces. These usually have adapters so they can also use 1.25" eyepieces. (Another, less common size is 0.96 inches.)
Despite the outlandish promises that may appear on a scope's box (such outlandish promises being a good indicator that the scope is junk) the maximum usable magnification is about 50x the aperture measured in inches or twice the aperture measured in millimeters. For example, a 5" scope is good for a maximum of about 250x. A 90 mm scope is good for about 180x.
Maximum magnification does not always provide the best view. For a given aperture you can't magically increase the amount of light the scope gathers. What does this mean? The greater the magnification you use, the dimmer the view will be. Think about it: If you take the same amount of light and use it to make a bigger image, the image has to get dimmer.
Forget about seeing views like the gorgeous photos that illustrate the boxes of some scopes. They're generally taken by giant scopes and they're made up by overlaying dozens, sometimes hundreds of repeated exposures. And each exposure may have lasted many minutes or even hours. Remember learning about the rods and cones in your eyes in junior high school science? The rods, being much more numerous and more sensitive to light, provide most of your night vision. But they're much less sensitive to color than the cones are. So the images you will see will be pale with only a hint of color.
If you can't afford to spend at least $200 on a scope consider buying a good pair of 10 x 50 binoculars for as little as half that. (The "10" refers to the magnification, which is usually fixed in binoculars; the "50" refers to the size of the objectives, 50mm.) There are whole books written on naked eye and binocular star gazing and binoculars are a great way to get into the hobby. As a bonus if the interest in astronomy wanes the binos will still be good for hiking, camping, bird watching and so on
LOMO Little Mak Maksutov Reflecting Telescope
Unlike most monoculars, this one is not a refractor, but a Maksutov Gregorian reflector! In the Maksutov-Gregorian design, the light rays from the primary mirror (in the back like a Newt. or other reflectors) converge BEFORE reaching the secondary mirror. The secondary mirror is concave (curved in) and sends the light waves "straight" back to the EP, not allowing them the cross again. This gives a "right side up" image without the use of prisms as in binoculars. The secondary mirror is held by a piece of glass, that would normally be a corrector plate, that is curved outward - not inward line other Maks. - and closes the tube.It size is about 4.5" long, about 40mm in diameter and weighs only 4 ounces. it gives a 4.5 degree FOV. Its aperture and focal length are 30mm and 152mm, respectively.The focuser is on the front near the secondary mirror, not near the EP where you would expect. Having the focuser nearer the EP end would be more convenient, though. The focuser travel is a little more than 3/4 of a turn from one side to the other.The central obstruction caused by the secondary mirror is a little distracting. The obstruction (by measuring from the outside) is more than 50%. This can be moved out of the way by angling the monocular slightly to one side. I find that angling in down moves the slight blur from the secondary far enough away so you can get a clear image. This blur isn't a big problem unless you are looking at an area with a lot of light, like a street light or somewhere.It comes in black or with a blue star chart body, a wrist strap that connects one time to the EP end, and one lens cap for the end with the secondary. It does not come with a case, but I have found that the cloth cellular phone holders, the ones with the fold-over top held in place by velcro, work very nicely for this size monocular.Every successful work of Russian astronomers is associated with the name LOMO®. LOMO has been involved in the development and manufacturing of observatory telescopes of different types for over 65 years. During this time, about 100 different telescopes with mirror diameters ranging from 250mm to 6m have been developed and manufactured by LOMO. Now many LOMO telescopes are used in Russian observatories as well as in Italy, Finland, Chile, China, Turkey, etc. Over the past 2 years LOMO in association with American engineers has developed a new line of recreational telescopes, and spotting scopes, ranging from 30 mm to 254 mm in diameter.
How to Buy a Good Pair of Binoculars
The most important tool for every birder is a good binocular. A high quality binocular can make all the difference in how much you enjoy bird watching. There have been recent improvements in optics that have improved performance but lowered the price of high-quality binoculars. This has led to an increase in the popularity of birding. While watching birds is probably the most demanding use of binoculars and scopes, the basic principals mentioned here remain fairly constant regardless of the purpose. Remember that the factors that determine the best choice of optics will vary with quality and design of the optics, personal preferences of the individual using them and the conditions under which you use your binoculars. Binoculars come in a variety of shapes, sizes and specifications. Most can be used for multiple purposes. Most would be suitable for a number of different activities including birdwatching, sporting events, concerts, star gazing, hiking, fishing and more. Birders are often considered the most demanding users, because they not only want to spot birds but identify them as well. This requires very sharp views so that fine details can be observed. Birds are found in all types of environments, at any time of the day and night and in every kind of weather.First, the image quality must be considered. The design, quality of materials and manufacturing factors are all important as to how well the binoculars will work over any period of time and conditions. Next, How easy are the binoculars to use? This is more subjective since we all have different preferences. We know that we don't want to carry around a five pound binocular, but the differences might not be so obvious when you are comparing optics ranging from 25-40 ounces. Weight is important but ergonomics may be more critical.Durability and weather resistance needs to be defined. Getting out into the field in cold weather to find that your binoculars have fogged up on the inside, can totally ruin an outing. Even though they look good, make sure they are of high quality and will withstand the simple unforeseen hazards that binoculars face. Some very good binoculars can be so delicate, that even a slight bump off the car seat to the floor could knock things out of alignment.Remember that generally the quality/price ratio is usually a good determining factor. You truly do get what we pay for in optics. But we can't all afford the very best. Middle price range optics can be a very good choice for most of us. These may not have all the features of the the most expensive binoculars, but are still very good with only slight differences in viewing.
How to start birdwatching or birding
Birding and birdwatching is the same thing. Bird watching is a recreational pastime which involves watching wild birds in their native habitat. It is great because it doesn't take much to get started. A pair of binoculars, a hat and a field guide. You might also want a notebook you can carry in your pocket (this is a place to record what you see and when you write a description it helps you focus on those characteristics on the bird). There are over 800 species of birds in North America, so wherever you live, there will probably be around 100 species that are easy to find.This is an activity that is for people of all ages. People of all fitness levels can be birders. It is the fastest growing outdoor activity in America. You can have some great fun while making a connection with nature. Birding delivers all the satisfaction of the hunt, even though the prey escapes unharmed. It is great for your health because it gets you outside and walking. It seems effortless because all your attention is on the birds. Birdwatching can unite your family. Parents or grandparents can introduce their children and grandchildren to an interest in nature. If you enjoy being social, it is great. A birder never needs to be lonely. Almost every community has a birding club of some sort and newcomers are always welcome. There are bird watching societies which might offer educational lectures and sponsor trips. But if you enjoy solitude, birdwatching can be an ideal solitary sport. Your mind can settle down and your senses open up.A field guide is a book that has information about birds. It can be just like an expert birder by your side. It can describe and show pictures of birds and tells you what details in each bird to look for. You might want to get a couple, because each books usually has something another doesn't.A hat just needs to shade your eyes. So any hat you own can work just fine. But make sure it doesn't interfere with your binoculars.You can start with whatever binoculars you have. If you don't have any binoculars, get the best binoculars you can afford. Usually, the better the binocular, the more it will cost. But you can find good binoculars in every price range.
Do I Really Need Good Binoculars
I am an avid outdoorsman but I haven’t had the money to buy quality binoculars and have spent most of my hunting life using poor quality optics. It was frustrating to be using lower quality optics and see two birds when I was looking at one.I finally decided to spend some money a get a good pair of optics. I researched the products and found what I hoped was a quality basic pair from Nikon. I trusted the Nikon name and purchased a pair of Nikon Monarch Binoculars. I have been very satisfied with them and the price is very reasonable considering the quality you get.I am amazed at how clear everything is when I look through them. They are lightweight and small which makes it perfect for getting into the back country to hunt. Since purchasing my binoculars, I am surprised at how much more wildlife I am able to see. I am able to identify small birds as well as count points on bull elk from great distances. I never realized how important a good pair of binoculars would be to my outdoor enjoyment until I got a good pair of binoculars.
Bushnell Compact Instant Replay Camera Binoculars
I purchased this item for the purpose of taking photos at a rock concert, and of birds and wildlife here at home. I thought it was pretty cool to have a digital camera attached to binoculars, and after some research in Consumer Reports' magazine, I chose Bushnell. It was tempting to think you can get great pictures of things you're seeing up close, but don't be fooled. The image quality of photos taken with this camera is low, with sharpness and color poorly reproduced. And the picture is not necessarily magnified as much as the image you're seeing through the binoculars, since the camera uses a separate lens. Oddly, it does not include tripod sockets, so it was difficult to shoot sharp images. You have to have something to set it on to get a clear shot, which is impossible at a concert. Here is a picture I took from the nosebleed section in the very back of the stadium. Still better than my regular camera, but you decide based on what you want it for!
How to focus Binoculars
It is surprising how many people do not know how to focus binoculars correctly. There are two common focusing systems used in binoculars.The first is individual eyepiece focus. This system is simple to understand, and easy to manufacture. It also lends itself well to sealed optical tubes, and thus is usually the focusing system used for waterproof binoculars. Individual eyepiece focus means that to focus the binoculars to your eyes, you simply focus the left eyepiece to your left eye and the right eyepiece to your right eye. There is no centrally located focusing mechanism. It is done like this. Look at something in the distance. Close the right eye (or cover the front of the right binocular), and focus the left eyepiece to your left eye. Close the left eye (or cover the front of the left binocular), and focus the right eyepiece to your right eye. You are finished, until you need to look at something at a different distance, in which case you need to repeat the process.Because individual eyepiece focus is time-consuming, center focus is more common. Unfortunately, very few people understand how to correctly use center focus binoculars. Here is how it is done. Aim your binoculars at something in the distance. Close the right eye (or cover the front of the right tube), and focus the left side of the binocular to your left eye using the center focus control, which is concentric with the pivot shaft between the binoculars. (Note: the left eyepiece itself does not focus on center focus binoculars.) Next, close your left eye (or cover the front of the left tube), and focus the right eyepiece to your right eye. DO NOT touch the center focus control while you are focusing the right eyepiece to your right eye. Now you are finished. What you have just done is adjust the binoculars for your individual eyes. (Practically everybody's left and right eyes are different.) From now on, you only need to adjust the center focus control when you look at things at different distances. Center focus is faster and easier to use than individual eyepiece focus, once you have initially set the binoculars for your eyes.
8.12.08
The Right Binoculars Part 2
In addition to size and expense, one must certainly consider fit. By fit, I mean the binoculars in relation to one's lifestyle. A good rule of thumb would be as follows: pick the largest size binoculars that you think you would actually carry half of the quality time. So, quality time doesn't include the grocery store. It does include every single hike in fair weather, every hunt, every European, Asian, African or what have you trip that you take regardless of whether some corporation sends you or you send yourself. Now, if you're like me, you have several pairs. I have the 8x20 Zeiss Dialyts for every damn where, the Duovid 42mms for everything semi-serious, and the Leitz 12x60 Mardocits for when it really really matters (the best binoculars ever made perhaps). But chances are you are not like me. Thus, you must choose between the compacts, the mediums and the big guns. Now, if you're operating out of a vehicle but stopping to view subjects, get the big guns. If you simply must have the zenith in performance, get the big guns. If you're not sure, then flip a coin to decide between the 40mms and 30mms. 8x30mm binoculars are more than satisfactory under fair lighting conditions such as viewing the Acropolis at 4pm. But if you're in doubt about the light, then at least do 8x40 or 10x40 binoculars or you'll be sorry. Next in terms of fit, consider the durability and water-tightness of the binoculars (scratch the Mardocits). Older roof prism binoculars from Zeiss may get you through most of the wetness, while older central-focus porros may get you through some of the wetness. But if you need binoculars that do not have to be cased or used under an umbrella to ensure that they do not fog; if you don't want to ever have to put your binoculars in the oven with the door slightly ajar at 140F for 3 hours after a visit to Costa Rica, the you may have to consider new binoculars such as Leica Duovid or Zeiss Victory. If on top of water resistance you want durability and optical quality, you more than likely need to by Zeiss, Leica, or Swarovski because only they can provide everything in a compact roof prism package with central focus for convenience. You can sit on your Leica Ultravids in a puddle of mud and fear no evil. So indeed, many people are well served by a pair of 32mm Swarovski ELs or Ultravids. On the other hand, I myself do not own one because I am too neurotic. When I want to really see something, I want a bigger lens. Furthermore, I really prefer the older binoculars most of the time. I bought the Duovids because they are in a class by themselves with the dual magnifications and the 12x power that I feel really gets the job done and which I swear by so long as you have steady hands. But I vastly prefer old Zeiss Oberkochen roofs such as 8x30 Dialyt over ELs, FLs and Ultravids. They just click 1 2 BANG!! Whatever you buy, make sure you do consider the "fit" as described in this guide; and also consider the personal fit. Maybe you have a flat little camera like the Casio Exilim. You can use one side of your binoculars as a telephoto converter. But that won't work well unless you keep the magnification reasonable like 7x or 8x. You can rig up a small tube of plastic pipe with velcro straps to get the right field of view in your camera this way, and you don't need to buy a bulky zoom camera. It's a personal thing. I don't carry a camera because I believe that the mind memorizes what matters and ignores what does not, so I like to take a good look with my binoculars the first time and remember whatever turns out to have been remembered. By the way, even with a Hasselblad 39 MP camera, an $18000 Mamiya super telephoto and a $15000 Fujinon image stabilizer, your pictures will be crumbier than the views through a good pair of binos from Leitz Leica, Zeiss or Swarovski, to say nothing of Fujinon 25x150 ED! Cheers! I hope this guide helps.
Hunting Guide Avoiding Bad Optics
Buyers should beware of sellers who are abusive and defraud buyers. They sell scopes at low cost but don't deliver or they deliver defective optics (factory rejects, or broken used scopes). Returning scopes to them often ends with the seller receiving a negative feedback, no scope, loss of s/h, loss of return shipping. The bad seller then resells the item next month. A prime example of this can be found herehttp://www.toolhaus.org/cgi-bin/negs?User=oneparadigm&v=60
The Right Binoculars
In general, the right binoculars are the biggest and most expensive binoculars whose exit pupils fit your fully dilated pupils, and whose magnification does not exceed your ability to steady them under normal viewing conditions of mild to moderate windiness, mild fatique and taking into consideration the holdability of the optics. Now, in the case of a young eye, under the age of 35, a 7mm or larger exit pupil will provide the greatest lowlight performance as well as user comfort. However, should such a viewer feel that most of his or her viewing will be conducted during the day and in relatively open spaces such as across fields or on mountains, a rational choice may well be to forego the advantages of a 7mm+ exit pupil in favor of greater magnification up to one's ability to steady that magnification. Thus, for a 30 year old in strong physical condition with the desire to pack the most formidable instrument for daylight useage, the choice may be a 12x50+mm binocular such as Leica 12x50 or Leica Duovid 10+15x50, or even Swarovski 15x56 without a tripod mind you! But, another 30 year old who is planning a visit to the Amazon Basin will be better served by 8x50+mm binoculars such as Leica 8x50 or Zeiss 8x56, or Swarovski 8x56, because they will allow him or her to see the most under the worst lighting conditions as may occur at the bottom of a rainforest near dawn or dusk. But if, on the other hand a 55 year old is visiting Amazonia, it is preferable for this person -whose pupils surely cannot dilate beyond about 5mm- to discover just how much magnification and weight he or she can handle. For such an individual, provided he or she is strong and steady handed, a 12x56 Zeiss (no longer made but perhaps findable) is ideal. Failing that, a Leica Duovid 10+15x50 is good as is a 12x50 Leica, a 10x50 Leica or Swarovski, or even a 15x56 Swarovski provided that configuration is tested beforehand. Although 56mm binoculars are heavy, note that they have very long optical tubes which entails a greater moment of inertia, hence greater inherent stability. Thus, a strong 55 year old will find a 12x56 equally stable as a 10x42 because it is longer. Lastly, we come to another class of users and conditions. Suppose the user is not particularly strong. In this case, the right fit has to be limited to a weight with which the user can cope: probably 30 ounces. If the user decides that even this is far too heavy, he or she may unfortunately have to accept the fact that they will NOT be getting the best binoculars. For example, even the finest 30mm or smaller binoculars in the world are inferior to a decent 42mm binocular, and will be completely incinerated across the board by perhaps even the most modest 50mm binoculars from a good manufacturer such as Zeiss or Leica. So in the 30 ounce area, you basically have 7 or 8x42s. But 10x42s may be appropriate for daylight useage, and you can't beat the celebrated Zeiss Classic 10x40s. If you're weaker than newborn babe or are climbing 8000 meter mountains, you may be stuck with 32mm binoculars which sort of work some of the time. But if you opt to go with compacts such as 10x25, you must resign yourself to the fact that no matter what you spend, you won't be getting a trully quality image under any circumstances whatsoever. Even the worst Chinese 42mm porro prisms are better than the best German 10x25s. And that's a fact. In general, aperture (objective lens size) IS king. One of the premium binoculars is only made in 32mm and 42mm and has very large prisms for its aperture. A wise choice would be to ask oneself: "shouldn't I just buy 50mm Leicas instead?" They aren't much larger in fact, and they will certainly outdo ANY 42mm binoculars that have been or can be made in the foreseable future. Sometimes compactness is worth as much or more than weight. It is impossible to beat Leica for durability and compactness. However, Swarovski has the edge in depth of field, and Zeiss is the sharpest PERIOD. These statements are general and vary with the period of manufacture, being most accurate NOW. In the remote past, Zeiss was categorically superior to ALL other binoculars in ALL ways. This has changed significantly, but Zeiss is still the sharpest. On the other hand, Leica has the sharpest edges, and Swarovski has the best depth of field, so much so that you may never touch the diopter wheel as long as you own them. So, to recap: which binoculars are OPTICALLY the best for you? The biggest to start with. Then, the biggest exit pupil that will fit your eyes. To measure your exit pupils, do the following. 1) draw a 5mm circle and cut it out, then paste it to your cheekbone under one eye. 2) enter a room with a mirror. 3) Set up a camera to focus SHARPLY on your image in the mirror 4) turn off the lights not moving from your postion and wait 10 minutes for your eyes to dilate to the maximum. 5), take a flash photograph of your eye as reflected in the mirror, making sure that your camera has the power and quality to do this in an instant (<0.01 seconds is best). 6) Study the photograph and compare your pupil's diameter with that of the 5mm drawn circle to estimate it's size. 7) when selecting a binocular, remember that the exit pupil is always equal to Aperture/Magnification. Thus, 10x50s have 50/10 mm exit pupils or 5mm exit pupils. So if your eyes were exactly 5mm, then this would make a fine choice, but no better than 12x56 if you can hold it steady. One small consideration: if your eyes are particularly close together, you may want to inquire about the minimum interpupillary distance of the binoculars you are contemplating. And know that, in this rare case, you may be restricted to 1) small binoculars, or 2) porro-prism binoculars. Porro prism binoculars are the binoculars with the wide-body configuration and are incredibly sharp for their price, but usually suffer from ghost images and stray light because they have not been designed to the most modern specs as only the intense and capital rich R&D operations of the premium European manufacturers, namely Zeiss, Leica and Swarovski, can guarantee. Last but not least, some people may find that image stabilized binoculars are the right choice for them. Basically, image stabilized binoculars are optically inferior across the board. However, magnification IS the single most limiting number on what you can actually SEE with binoculars in good light, just as aperture is the limiter of QUALITY. I am always available to answer additional questions about sports optics. Feel free to contact me at 718-578-5231 any time of day or night -I don't sleep by the phone!
Image Stabilized Binoculars
Anyone who is really serious about obtaining the best image quality in binoculars should treat themselves to a view through Image Stabilized (IS) optics. Quite simply IS binoculars bring an entire new viewing experience to the user.
The current binocular market is bringing ever improving image quality to both the casual and expert user. Anti reflection coatings, high index BaK4 prisms, and modern ergonomics are all vastly improved. The image from most mid level to upper end binoculars will bring the user sharp, bright, and contrasty views. However, it is a sad fact that even the best image is seriously degraded..... simply by image shake. The amount of detail and fine resolution that can be seen in standard (non IS binocular) is for the most part FLEETING. Even users who boast of a rock steady hold, will be hampered by jitters, oscillation, and image movement. The eye and mind do a great job..... in connecting the dots......but detail is invariably lost and eye strain often results. Sure you can mount your binos on a tripod, but you loose the portability factor...you might as well use a spotting scope. Enter the IS binocular
Images through most modern IS binoculars are an entirely different viewing experience. Detail is magnified without jitters, and the mind and eye can relax ......actually see and enjoy..... rather than interpolate and connect detail. Overall the viewing experience is much more precise and comfortable. Eye strain is greatly diminished. A good pair of IS binoculars will stabilize both high frequency jitters, and longer period oscillations, from body movement or platform shake. All this leads to an image experience LIKE YOU ARE THERE, rather than looking through an optical instrument.
The benefit is much easier to experience then describe. I remember following a commercial airliner in flight with an IS binocular...... I could clearly see the planes rudder.....moving back and fourth.... making subtle adjustments. This view would have been utterly impossible without IS. Pick any resolution target, and the amount of detail that can be pulled from the picture is magnitudes ahead of the handheld view. Even mounted binoculars fall short in comparison. Shake is still added by body movement, breathing, and random oscillations. With good IS all these factors become neutralized. Details pop out like you've never experienced, even compared to a top of the line non IS binocular. I generally I try to compare my IS views to the optically outstanding view I get from my Zeiss 8x30 Milspec binoculars. The detail and contrast afforded through by the Zeiss meets the highest optical standards for resolution and brightness. However that detail ALWAYS falls short of the IS view........... it's not even a fair fight.
Drawbacks to IS?....... Not many. Prices on many IS are now comparable with mid priced NON IS units. Good IS can be obtained for under 400 street price. Top end IS Like Fujinon compares with top end unstablized binoculars. Manufactures such as NEWCON use Russian design, labor, and tooling, to minimize cost and maintain quality. Canon, Fujinon, Nikon, and Bushnell have also done a good job in controlling prices to bring affordable models to the market place. Yes IS units are a bit heavier than traditional binos, but not excessively so. Certainly the portability is still there. Batteries may be required, but typically they don't add much weight, and the cost for a good set of 4 AA rechargeables won't kill anyones budget. Most units are spec'd for HOURS of continuous run time on a single set. NEWCON also makes an outstanding mechanical IS binoculars which require no batteries, but still perform admirably. Some reviewers have complained that you have to engage the IS .....by holding a button...........This, is in my opinion, is a small price to pay for an outstanding image. Many IS models are less bulky than a pair of standard 7x50's
The biggest knock to IS is durability. Parts (gyroscopes and sensors) are moving in these designs, and they may not be the best choice if you are going to be expecting hard knocks during rough use. In fact ia am amazed at how durable IS binoculars are given the complexity of thye designs. Search out a good warranty and treat these units to careful handeling. Buying new is certainly a better option too. You will be amazed at the quality of the images they return back to you.
The current binocular market is bringing ever improving image quality to both the casual and expert user. Anti reflection coatings, high index BaK4 prisms, and modern ergonomics are all vastly improved. The image from most mid level to upper end binoculars will bring the user sharp, bright, and contrasty views. However, it is a sad fact that even the best image is seriously degraded..... simply by image shake. The amount of detail and fine resolution that can be seen in standard (non IS binocular) is for the most part FLEETING. Even users who boast of a rock steady hold, will be hampered by jitters, oscillation, and image movement. The eye and mind do a great job..... in connecting the dots......but detail is invariably lost and eye strain often results. Sure you can mount your binos on a tripod, but you loose the portability factor...you might as well use a spotting scope. Enter the IS binocular
Images through most modern IS binoculars are an entirely different viewing experience. Detail is magnified without jitters, and the mind and eye can relax ......actually see and enjoy..... rather than interpolate and connect detail. Overall the viewing experience is much more precise and comfortable. Eye strain is greatly diminished. A good pair of IS binoculars will stabilize both high frequency jitters, and longer period oscillations, from body movement or platform shake. All this leads to an image experience LIKE YOU ARE THERE, rather than looking through an optical instrument.
The benefit is much easier to experience then describe. I remember following a commercial airliner in flight with an IS binocular...... I could clearly see the planes rudder.....moving back and fourth.... making subtle adjustments. This view would have been utterly impossible without IS. Pick any resolution target, and the amount of detail that can be pulled from the picture is magnitudes ahead of the handheld view. Even mounted binoculars fall short in comparison. Shake is still added by body movement, breathing, and random oscillations. With good IS all these factors become neutralized. Details pop out like you've never experienced, even compared to a top of the line non IS binocular. I generally I try to compare my IS views to the optically outstanding view I get from my Zeiss 8x30 Milspec binoculars. The detail and contrast afforded through by the Zeiss meets the highest optical standards for resolution and brightness. However that detail ALWAYS falls short of the IS view........... it's not even a fair fight.
Drawbacks to IS?....... Not many. Prices on many IS are now comparable with mid priced NON IS units. Good IS can be obtained for under 400 street price. Top end IS Like Fujinon compares with top end unstablized binoculars. Manufactures such as NEWCON use Russian design, labor, and tooling, to minimize cost and maintain quality. Canon, Fujinon, Nikon, and Bushnell have also done a good job in controlling prices to bring affordable models to the market place. Yes IS units are a bit heavier than traditional binos, but not excessively so. Certainly the portability is still there. Batteries may be required, but typically they don't add much weight, and the cost for a good set of 4 AA rechargeables won't kill anyones budget. Most units are spec'd for HOURS of continuous run time on a single set. NEWCON also makes an outstanding mechanical IS binoculars which require no batteries, but still perform admirably. Some reviewers have complained that you have to engage the IS .....by holding a button...........This, is in my opinion, is a small price to pay for an outstanding image. Many IS models are less bulky than a pair of standard 7x50's
The biggest knock to IS is durability. Parts (gyroscopes and sensors) are moving in these designs, and they may not be the best choice if you are going to be expecting hard knocks during rough use. In fact ia am amazed at how durable IS binoculars are given the complexity of thye designs. Search out a good warranty and treat these units to careful handeling. Buying new is certainly a better option too. You will be amazed at the quality of the images they return back to you.
Binoculars
What Kind of Binoculars Should I Buy? The quick and easy answer should be based on two considerations: (1). How am I going to use them? (2). How much money do I want to spend? Like every other commodity, there is always a relation between function and cost - the more things you can do with something, the more it usually costs because the design and manufacturing process has to be able to satisfy multiple requirements. By the same token, in optics there's no one shoe that fits all. If you want to use the binoculars for more than one type of viewing, you'll probably have to make some compromises. So what we are going to try and do here is give you some guidelines that will allow you to come up with a good choice that will satisfy most of your needs and leave you with a little money in your pocket to also buy something else.
Function: There are two basic ways to use binoculars: (1). Do you want to make the object bigger? (2). Do you want to make the object clearer? Now let's define the object itself: (1). Is it moving or is it still? (2). Is it a specific target within a larger background or is it the background itself? Chances are that you will probably answer all those questions with a "yes." In other words, you probably want to carry binoculars that will perform multiple functions. You also will probably use the binoculars in multiple environments: dry, wet, dark, bright, walking, sitting, etc. Finding binoculars that are the "best of breed" for every function and every environment is impossible. Finding binoculars that will deliver satisfactory results in different functions and different environments is a much easier task.
Cost: Generally speaking, in optics you get what you pay for. Which means that the more you pay, the better you get. But how much better is better? Most optic requirements can be met with binoculars that have a power of 8x40 (we will explain what this means below.) If you pay $250 - $350 for 8x40 binoculars, you are probably getting a product that the market has judged to be sufficient. If you pay more, you may be paying for look, feel and marketing costs. If you pay much less, you are probably going to wind up with junk. As you go up the power scale, let's say to 12x50, your price rises accordingly. If you go down the scale, the price is somewhat less. Don't be fooled in thinking that the place of manufacture means a lot - it really doesn't. Thge kind of manufacturing techniques that German and Swiss optics manufacturers pioneered a century ago are generic to the whole industry, no matter where it is located. Computers grind glass just as accurately in Shanghai as in Lausanne.
Some definitions: Binocular design is based on location of the prisms; i.e., the reflecting glass that re-sizes the image through the lens. Until recently, most high-grade bincoulars used Porro prisms, which were offset from the eyepieces. Today most binoculars use what is called roof prisms which are in line with the eyepieces. Roof prisms result in smaller binoculars that are easier to carry, aim and hold. Porro prisms give greater depth.
Magnification. Expressed in the magnification of the object times the millimeter width of the objective lens. If you have 8x42 binoculars they will let you see an object 8 times larger than it really is through a lens that is 42 millimeters wide. Generally speaking, as you increase the size of the magnification, you gain view but lose sharpness. As you increase the width of the lens, you gain more light but lose depth. Binoculars that are 8x40ish seem to be about the best combination of view, light and depth. At least this is what the market is telling us now.
Last Thought: Try to remember this: The best binoculars I ever used were the pair that gave me a viewing experience that I will never forget. Don't buy binoculars that weigh more than what you feel is comfortable, generally speaking, this is 2.5 pounds or less. Not a lot less, but not more. If the binoculars work great in the car but are too heavy to wear around your neck, then you bought the wrong pair
Function: There are two basic ways to use binoculars: (1). Do you want to make the object bigger? (2). Do you want to make the object clearer? Now let's define the object itself: (1). Is it moving or is it still? (2). Is it a specific target within a larger background or is it the background itself? Chances are that you will probably answer all those questions with a "yes." In other words, you probably want to carry binoculars that will perform multiple functions. You also will probably use the binoculars in multiple environments: dry, wet, dark, bright, walking, sitting, etc. Finding binoculars that are the "best of breed" for every function and every environment is impossible. Finding binoculars that will deliver satisfactory results in different functions and different environments is a much easier task.
Cost: Generally speaking, in optics you get what you pay for. Which means that the more you pay, the better you get. But how much better is better? Most optic requirements can be met with binoculars that have a power of 8x40 (we will explain what this means below.) If you pay $250 - $350 for 8x40 binoculars, you are probably getting a product that the market has judged to be sufficient. If you pay more, you may be paying for look, feel and marketing costs. If you pay much less, you are probably going to wind up with junk. As you go up the power scale, let's say to 12x50, your price rises accordingly. If you go down the scale, the price is somewhat less. Don't be fooled in thinking that the place of manufacture means a lot - it really doesn't. Thge kind of manufacturing techniques that German and Swiss optics manufacturers pioneered a century ago are generic to the whole industry, no matter where it is located. Computers grind glass just as accurately in Shanghai as in Lausanne.
Some definitions: Binocular design is based on location of the prisms; i.e., the reflecting glass that re-sizes the image through the lens. Until recently, most high-grade bincoulars used Porro prisms, which were offset from the eyepieces. Today most binoculars use what is called roof prisms which are in line with the eyepieces. Roof prisms result in smaller binoculars that are easier to carry, aim and hold. Porro prisms give greater depth.
Magnification. Expressed in the magnification of the object times the millimeter width of the objective lens. If you have 8x42 binoculars they will let you see an object 8 times larger than it really is through a lens that is 42 millimeters wide. Generally speaking, as you increase the size of the magnification, you gain view but lose sharpness. As you increase the width of the lens, you gain more light but lose depth. Binoculars that are 8x40ish seem to be about the best combination of view, light and depth. At least this is what the market is telling us now.
Last Thought: Try to remember this: The best binoculars I ever used were the pair that gave me a viewing experience that I will never forget. Don't buy binoculars that weigh more than what you feel is comfortable, generally speaking, this is 2.5 pounds or less. Not a lot less, but not more. If the binoculars work great in the car but are too heavy to wear around your neck, then you bought the wrong pair
7.12.08
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Franchise and Franchise Opportunities on Franchise Works Franchise ...Find the franchise or business opportunity of your dreams, receive Free Expert Advice and contact a franchise business consultant. Our franchise center is ...www.franchiseworks.comFranchise, Business Franchise - Franchise-Consultation.comGet expert frachise advice with Entrepreneur's free franchise consultation ... If you are looking to start a franchise or business, use this free service to ...www.franchise-consultation.comFranchises and Businesses for Sale at Yahoo Power SearchYahoo Power Search provides a free directory of franchises and businesses for sale in the US and abroad. Use our Franchise Finder to search opportunities in ...yahoo.franchisesolutions.com/index.cfm/fa/pif/Business franchises price quotes - Free franchising information ...Get FREE Franchise Quotes from Multiple Consultants. franchise. Describe your needs, get matched with multiple franchise consultants; Get quotes for all ...www.buyerzone.com/Franchise Opportunities: The Right Franchise Business Makes All ...Free consultation to investigate and select franchise opportunities that match your personal profile and financial qualifications.www.franchoice.com/
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Microsoft Xbox 360 Elite System
Xbox 360 Elite is the premier Xbox 360 console package that includes a massive hard drive, a high-definition multimedia interface (HDMI) port, a high-definition cable, and a premium black finish. Xbox 360 Elite also includes a wireless controller and Xbox Live headset. Xbox 360 Elite has enough space for a whole library of Xbox Live Arcade games as well as downloadable high-definition TV shows, movies, music, and more.
Sony PlayStation 2
If you want the very best in interactive home entertainment, then there really is no other choice than PlayStation 2. Fun, accessible, sociable and inclusive, PlayStation 2 offers an unparalleled range of audio-visual experiences and is an essential addition to your existing home entertainment set up. Bring your living room alive with some of the greatest multiplayer games known to man, experience the astonishing picture quality of DVD and more, all on a single, simple, plug-and-play unit. PlayStation 2 plays host to the largest and most varied range of video games ever assembled. No matter what type of game you prefer, from sports to shoot 'em-ups, from driving to role-playing, PlayStation 2 delivers it all. You won't find exclusive titles like Gran Turismo, Grand Theft Auto, Tekken, Ratchet & Clank or The Getaway on any other console, so whether you're a hardcore gamer, or just fancy a quick blast now and then, PlayStation 2 really is the only entertainment system that matters. If you're upgrading from PS one, you'll be pleased to know that the PlayStation 2 will play all of your existing PS one games, so you already have a good headstart on building up your collection. Some of the more recent PS one games even benefit from enhanced visuals and audio when played through the PlayStation 2. But it's not all about games; PlayStation 2 is also a fully-fledged DVD player out of the box. Give all of your favorite films a new lease of life with all the benefits of the format: incredible sound and picture quality, bonus features and special additions. Additionally, you can even listen to all of your audio CDs on the PS2, and if your existing home setup includes Dolby Digital Surround Sound, you've got all of the connections you need to hook your PS2 up straight away. Make PlayStation 2 the center of your home entertainment system and you'll wonder how you ever survived without it.
Sony PlayStation 2
If you want the very best in interactive home entertainment, then there really is no other choice than PlayStation 2. Fun, accessible, sociable and inclusive, PlayStation 2 offers an unparalleled range of audio-visual experiences and is an essential addition to your existing home entertainment set up. Bring your living room alive with some of the greatest multiplayer games known to man, experience the astonishing picture quality of DVD and more, all on a single, simple, plug-and-play unit. PlayStation 2 plays host to the largest and most varied range of video games ever assembled. No matter what type of game you prefer, from sports to shoot 'em-ups, from driving to role-playing, PlayStation 2 delivers it all. You won't find exclusive titles like Gran Turismo, Grand Theft Auto, Tekken, Ratchet & Clank or The Getaway on any other console, so whether you're a hardcore gamer, or just fancy a quick blast now and then, PlayStation 2 really is the only entertainment system that matters. If you're upgrading from PS one, you'll be pleased to know that the PlayStation 2 will play all of your existing PS one games, so you already have a good headstart on building up your collection. Some of the more recent PS one games even benefit from enhanced visuals and audio when played through the PlayStation 2. But it's not all about games; PlayStation 2 is also a fully-fledged DVD player out of the box. Give all of your favorite films a new lease of life with all the benefits of the format: incredible sound and picture quality, bonus features and special additions. Additionally, you can even listen to all of your audio CDs on the PS2, and if your existing home setup includes Dolby Digital Surround Sound, you've got all of the connections you need to hook your PS2 up straight away. Make PlayStation 2 the center of your home entertainment system and you'll wonder how you ever survived without it.
Microsoft Xbox 360 Core System
The Xbox 360 Core System is everything you need to hit the ground running. Plug in the console and the controller and you're playing. Then decide what extras you add and when - it's expandable to the full Xbox 360 experience. Fusing powerful hardware, software, and services, Xbox 360 fully engages you in a gaming experience that is more expansive, dramatic, and lifelike, where the possibilities are limitless and your imagination knows no boundaries. A merger of form and function, Xbox 360 wraps powerful technology in a sophisticated exterior. The Xbox Gamer Guide is an entertainment gateway that instantly connects you to your games, friends, music, movies, and downloadable content. Xbox 360 lets you create your own unique system and experience.
Nintendo 64
The Nintendo 64 is the system of choice for players who want to get "in" on the most fun in video games. The Nintendo 64 provides 64-bit graphics and CD-quality sound. Microcode-custom CPU control instructions are optimized for audio, lighting, graphic details and other ultra-realistic affects. Trilinear map interpolation subtly blends colors and patterns of texture maps to make objects more realistic, even as they move closer to you. With real-time rendering and awesome graphics, which smoothes out jagged edges, the N64 immerses you in a heart-pounding video game world! Attain new levels of accuracy and play control with the ergonomically designed Controller that gives you complete control over every move through 360 degrees. Optional accessories like the N64 Controller Pak and Rumble Pak expand your game-play possibilities! The Nintendo 64 game library now includes over 200 titles in all game genres, from action and adventure to RPG and puzzle. The Nintendo 64 is the only system where you can play such blockbuster games as Super Mario 64, The Legend of Zelda: Majora's Mask and Perfect Dark. The Nintendo 64 console now comes in set of fantastic colors, including Grape, Watermelon, Ice, Jungle Green, Fire and Smoke. Choose the system that matches your personality!
Microsoft Xbox 360
Bring gaming to life in your living room with the Xbox Video Game System, the essential center-piece to any home entertainment set up. Beneath the cool, tough exterior is a system capable of powering the very best single and multiplayer gaming experiences available today. Designed to push gaming to the absolute limit, the Xbox console delivers incredible graphics and cinematic sound that will drop you and your friends deep into the heart of the action. The immense range of top-class games and online gaming with Xbox Live mean there will never be another dull moment
Nintendo Entertainment System
The original Nintendo Entertainment System (NES) was released in the United States in August, 1985. Backed by classic games such as Super Mario Bros., The Legend of Zelda and Excitebike, the NES was instantly a hit. Its graphics were far superior to any home-based console that had come before it, leaving gamers with the feeling that their homes had been transformed into real-life arcades. The NES spawned a variety of interesting accessories, from R.O.B. the robot to the Power Pad controller, and went on to sell over 60 million units worldwide.
Sony PlayStation 3
Featuring the world's most powerful processor, PlayStation 3 delivers an experience beyond anything you know today. With a built in Blu-ray Disc drive, PlayStation 3 invites you to a whole new generation in high-definition graphics and media capabilities. Whether it's high-definition gaming, Blu-ray movies, music or online services, PlayStation 3 takes you where you've never dreamed possible - a place where you can play beyond.
Microsoft Xbox 360 Premium Edition System
DescriptionThe Xbox 360 video game and entertainment system places you at the center of the experience. Xbox 360 ignites a new era of digital entertainment that is always connected, always personalized, and always in high definition. Xbox 360 gives you access to the games you want to play, the people you want to play with, and the experiences you crave - when and where you want them.
Nintendo Wii
DescriptionFeaturing a compact design that makes it a natural addition to any television setup, the Wii console can be displayed either vertically or horizontally. The Wii is backward compatible to all Nintendo GameCube games and includes four ports for controllers and two slots for memory cards. A single self-loading media bay plays single- or double-layered 12-cm optical discs for the Wii console, as well as 8-cm Nintendo GameCube discs. Input: Four Wii Remotes can communicate with Wii, which features a bay for an SD memory card. Output: An AV Multi-output port for component, composite or S-video. The Wii console communicates wirelessly with the Internet via wireless or a Wii LAN adaptor. Wii also can connect wirelessly with Nintendo DS.
The Voice-Activated R2-D2 Toy for Christmas
Looking for the "IT" gift of Christmas 2005?! Look for The Voice Activated R2-D2!
The Voice Activated R2-D2 is an ideal gift for any Star Wars fan or young kid. And just in time for Christmas - because, though they retail on Hammacher Schlemmer for $120.00 - they are selling on eBay in the mid $70s!
Just like the Star Wars movies, the Voice Activated R2-D2 Toy that is dominating Christmas sales is a robotic, motorized replica of the Star Wars "Droid". And like the other robotic toys on the market, the R2-D2 responds to voice, can move and walk around walkways, and capable of obeying 40+ voice commands including "turn around" or "move forward X units." And like the RoboRaptor, R2D2 is able to play a variety of games such as tag and can even sense people with its infrared eyes (which allow him to notice people, follow them, or act differently). R2-D2 can also replay sounds and dialog from “Star Wars” movies, answer yes-or-no questions, and dance while playing the famed cantina music. Voice Activated R2D2 sizes:15" H x 7 1/2" W x 10 1/2" "
The Voice Activated R2-D2 is an ideal gift for any Star Wars fan or young kid. And just in time for Christmas - because, though they retail on Hammacher Schlemmer for $120.00 - they are selling on eBay in the mid $70s!
Just like the Star Wars movies, the Voice Activated R2-D2 Toy that is dominating Christmas sales is a robotic, motorized replica of the Star Wars "Droid". And like the other robotic toys on the market, the R2-D2 responds to voice, can move and walk around walkways, and capable of obeying 40+ voice commands including "turn around" or "move forward X units." And like the RoboRaptor, R2D2 is able to play a variety of games such as tag and can even sense people with its infrared eyes (which allow him to notice people, follow them, or act differently). R2-D2 can also replay sounds and dialog from “Star Wars” movies, answer yes-or-no questions, and dance while playing the famed cantina music. Voice Activated R2D2 sizes:15" H x 7 1/2" W x 10 1/2" "
Transformers (2007, HD DVD)
Movie DescriptionBased on the Hasbro toy line that initially captivated kids in the 1980s, director Michael Bay's TRANSFORMERS finds two warring bands of shape-shifting alien robots renewing their intergalactic conflict on Earth. While the Decepticons, followers of the malevolent Megatron (voiced by Hugo Weaving), strive to take over the planet, the Autobots, led by the valiant Optimus Prime (voiced by Peter Cullen), are intent on protecting humanity. When young Sam Witwicky (Shia LaBeouf) discovers that his new car is really the Autobot Bumblebee (voiced by Mark Ryan), it sets the stage for a massive giant-robot showdown.A shining example of the Hollywood summer blockbuster at its best, TRANSFORMERS combines stunning CGI effects and thrilling action sequences with drama, humor, and a touch of romance. Featuring a large cast that includes Josh Duhamel, Tyrese Gibson, Jon Voight, John Turturro, Anthony Anderson, and Rachael Taylor, the film is anchored by LaBeouf, who always displays an engaging Everyman charm, whether he's running from colossal robots, interacting with his well-meaning parents (hilariously played by Kevin Dunn and Julie White), or pining for his gorgeous classmate (Megan Fox). While some TRANSFORMERS purists may be dismayed by certain aspects of this bold big-screen adaptation (Bumblebee is a Camaro instead of a Volkswagen), the movie balances its spectacle with an admirable amount of substance, giving it an appeal far beyond pre-teen boys and their nostalgic Autobot-loving elders.
Transformers (2008, Blu-ray Disc)
Movie DescriptionBased on the Hasbro toy line that initially captivated kids in the 1980s, director Michael Bay's TRANSFORMERS finds two warring bands of shape-shifting alien robots renewing their intergalactic conflict on Earth. While the Decepticons, followers of the malevolent Megatron (voiced by Hugo Weaving), strive to take over the planet, the Autobots, led by the valiant Optimus Prime (voiced by Peter Cullen), are intent on protecting humanity. When young Sam Witwicky (Shia LaBeouf) discovers that his new car is really the Autobot Bumblebee (voiced by Mark Ryan), it sets the stage for a massive giant-robot showdown.A shining example of the Hollywood summer blockbuster at its best, TRANSFORMERS combines stunning CGI effects and thrilling action sequences with drama, humor, and a touch of romance. Featuring a large cast that includes Josh Duhamel, Tyrese Gibson, Jon Voight, John Turturro, Anthony Anderson, and Rachael Taylor, the film is anchored by LaBeouf, who always displays an engaging Everyman charm, whether he's running from colossal robots, interacting with his well-meaning parents (hilariously played by Kevin Dunn and Julie White), or pining for his gorgeous classmate (Megan Fox). While some TRANSFORMERS purists may be dismayed by certain aspects of this bold big-screen adaptation (Bumblebee is a Camaro instead of a Volkswagen), the movie balances its spectacle with an admirable amount of substance, giving it an appeal far beyond pre-teen boys and their nostalgic Autobot-loving elders.
STAR WARS - E-wing Escort Starfighter
E-WING STARFIGHTER
The E-wing escort starfighter was a single-pilot starfighter developed by FreiTek Inc. It was the first fighter designed entirely under the support of the New Republic.
This powerful starfighter was used by the New Republic, particularly by the Fifth Fleet, and later by the Galactic Alliance. Despite some initial problems, E-wings participated in many major engagements during the Black Fleet Crisis, Yuuzhan Vong War, and beyond.
The E-wing was considered an excellent combination of firepower, maneuverability, speed, and armor, but initial models required the use of the R7-series astromech droid, which was exclusively built for the E-wing.
The spaceframe of the E-wing was surrounded by two aerodynamic foils which provided stability and increased weapons ability. The nosecone contained the starfighter's powerful sensors, while a concealed astromech droid could easily be positioned midway through the craft. Directly in front of the astromech slot was the cockpit.
The fighter was heavily armed with three laser cannons and one proton torpedo launcher with a magazine of sixteen torpedoes. Like most Rebel designs, the lasers were spread out and could be set to converge at varying distances.
A single E-wing cost 185,000 credits.
Much of the great cost of the E-wing came from the use of the R7 droid, a much more sophisticated and expensive astromech than the classic R2 and R5 astromechs.
The E-wing had some initial teething problems relating to the placement of the wing lasers near the outboard engines. The synthetic Tibanna gas used for the lasers tended to degrade at accelerated rates, which swiftly rendered those guns near-useless (and cutting gun firepower to a third). Those problems were eventually resolved and the fighter entered fleet service. It is known to have served at least with the New Republic's Fifth Fleet as the primary fleet space superiority fighter. When the Fifth Fleet was moved to the Koornacht Cluster during the Black Fleet Crisis, many E-wings saw action against the Yevetha in the conflict that ensued.
GALOOB STAR WARS ACTION FLEET E-WING
Four major models appeared to have been designed; the last (Series IV) was introduced around the time of the capture of Coruscant by the Yuuzhan Vong. By that point in the war, the XJ X-wing was rapidly equipping most squadrons in the massive military expansion; the more sophisticated E-wing may have been limited to some elite squadrons. The Series IV E-wing remained in service through the transition from New Republic to Galactic Alliance, and was still in operation as of the Second Corellian Crisis.
Originally, the E-wing was so sophisticated that it had to have the new R7 astromech built for it. Later models of the E-wing starfighters were however able to interface with a earlier astromech models, such as an R2 or R5 unit.
"May The Force Be With You... Always."
The E-wing escort starfighter was a single-pilot starfighter developed by FreiTek Inc. It was the first fighter designed entirely under the support of the New Republic.
This powerful starfighter was used by the New Republic, particularly by the Fifth Fleet, and later by the Galactic Alliance. Despite some initial problems, E-wings participated in many major engagements during the Black Fleet Crisis, Yuuzhan Vong War, and beyond.
The E-wing was considered an excellent combination of firepower, maneuverability, speed, and armor, but initial models required the use of the R7-series astromech droid, which was exclusively built for the E-wing.
The spaceframe of the E-wing was surrounded by two aerodynamic foils which provided stability and increased weapons ability. The nosecone contained the starfighter's powerful sensors, while a concealed astromech droid could easily be positioned midway through the craft. Directly in front of the astromech slot was the cockpit.
The fighter was heavily armed with three laser cannons and one proton torpedo launcher with a magazine of sixteen torpedoes. Like most Rebel designs, the lasers were spread out and could be set to converge at varying distances.
A single E-wing cost 185,000 credits.
Much of the great cost of the E-wing came from the use of the R7 droid, a much more sophisticated and expensive astromech than the classic R2 and R5 astromechs.
The E-wing had some initial teething problems relating to the placement of the wing lasers near the outboard engines. The synthetic Tibanna gas used for the lasers tended to degrade at accelerated rates, which swiftly rendered those guns near-useless (and cutting gun firepower to a third). Those problems were eventually resolved and the fighter entered fleet service. It is known to have served at least with the New Republic's Fifth Fleet as the primary fleet space superiority fighter. When the Fifth Fleet was moved to the Koornacht Cluster during the Black Fleet Crisis, many E-wings saw action against the Yevetha in the conflict that ensued.
GALOOB STAR WARS ACTION FLEET E-WING
Four major models appeared to have been designed; the last (Series IV) was introduced around the time of the capture of Coruscant by the Yuuzhan Vong. By that point in the war, the XJ X-wing was rapidly equipping most squadrons in the massive military expansion; the more sophisticated E-wing may have been limited to some elite squadrons. The Series IV E-wing remained in service through the transition from New Republic to Galactic Alliance, and was still in operation as of the Second Corellian Crisis.
Originally, the E-wing was so sophisticated that it had to have the new R7 astromech built for it. Later models of the E-wing starfighters were however able to interface with a earlier astromech models, such as an R2 or R5 unit.
"May The Force Be With You... Always."
Super Mario Galaxy
Top Reviews
Best Mario Game Since Mario 64
Review created: 11/15/07(updated 11/21/07)
by:
animefreak28 ( 500)
See all reviews by animefreak28
37 of 40 people found this review helpful.
Mario has been ever since the 80's been Nintendo's "go to guy" when they needed sales. The mascot, the staple of one giant among giants in the gaming industry. I'd have to say that the reviews I'd read and heard from other sources tend to about spot on. Case in point, this is the 1st Mario game if not game in general to have a realistic gravity effect. This is why Mario Galaxy gets a 4/5 from me. Storyline - 3/5 The story is pretty much what you have seen before in the Mario franchise.The story is the only bad thing about this game because we've seen the same thing many times.The story mimics that of what we're already been feed like Mario 64. Mario just heads to Peach's castle after a sent invitation to a night festival and Bowser invades by pulling the princess's castle and taken into other space. Actually now that I think about it, it seems like the exact same story as Paper Mario for the 64. A homage maybe back to the "Sorry, but your princess in is another castle" Gameplay + Control - 4/5 This is a very close 5/5 believe me. The graphics are breathtaking, the game is simply glorious. The 360 degrees of freedom that your allowed to navigate with the elegancy of the free roaming camera angels. The different suits Mario changes in and out of work seamlessly with easy transaction. Controlling Mario can be a little hard at initially, if you are not experienced with his games, but it won't take long to get a hang on the controls. Everything is sweet and straightforward, whatever screen your on if it be the main screen or the HUD, the controls are simple.The + and - buttons serve the same purpose, basically they are the start button. The Direction Pad lets you look around in directions (Along with a first person view), but there is always the C button to make the camera look in the direction Mario is facing. Replay Value - 5/5 Their’s about 30 to 40 hours of game time, included in that are some 2-D scrolling aspects along with the option to collect all the 100+ stars just like in Mario 64, even though it only takes about 60 to finish the game. There is a two player mode, along with a “Trial Galaxies". Music - 4/5 The in game music is soothing at times and hard on the ears. The music helps set the mood for the level, or even for a power-up you have just obtained. It can range from serene, to chaotic, and to dark. Not to mention the classic Mario Bros songs you will hear, which will no doubt give you the feeling of nostalgia. The replay value is quite high until you get to the point of beating the game over and over again. If only Nintendo had a way to add extra content to their games threw downloads, the possibilities for this would be almost endless, but once again Nintendo delivers a great game with Mario in it (Well, till Smash Bros. Brawl is out)
Best Mario Game Since Mario 64
Review created: 11/15/07(updated 11/21/07)
by:
animefreak28 ( 500)
See all reviews by animefreak28
37 of 40 people found this review helpful.
Mario has been ever since the 80's been Nintendo's "go to guy" when they needed sales. The mascot, the staple of one giant among giants in the gaming industry. I'd have to say that the reviews I'd read and heard from other sources tend to about spot on. Case in point, this is the 1st Mario game if not game in general to have a realistic gravity effect. This is why Mario Galaxy gets a 4/5 from me. Storyline - 3/5 The story is pretty much what you have seen before in the Mario franchise.The story is the only bad thing about this game because we've seen the same thing many times.The story mimics that of what we're already been feed like Mario 64. Mario just heads to Peach's castle after a sent invitation to a night festival and Bowser invades by pulling the princess's castle and taken into other space. Actually now that I think about it, it seems like the exact same story as Paper Mario for the 64. A homage maybe back to the "Sorry, but your princess in is another castle" Gameplay + Control - 4/5 This is a very close 5/5 believe me. The graphics are breathtaking, the game is simply glorious. The 360 degrees of freedom that your allowed to navigate with the elegancy of the free roaming camera angels. The different suits Mario changes in and out of work seamlessly with easy transaction. Controlling Mario can be a little hard at initially, if you are not experienced with his games, but it won't take long to get a hang on the controls. Everything is sweet and straightforward, whatever screen your on if it be the main screen or the HUD, the controls are simple.The + and - buttons serve the same purpose, basically they are the start button. The Direction Pad lets you look around in directions (Along with a first person view), but there is always the C button to make the camera look in the direction Mario is facing. Replay Value - 5/5 Their’s about 30 to 40 hours of game time, included in that are some 2-D scrolling aspects along with the option to collect all the 100+ stars just like in Mario 64, even though it only takes about 60 to finish the game. There is a two player mode, along with a “Trial Galaxies". Music - 4/5 The in game music is soothing at times and hard on the ears. The music helps set the mood for the level, or even for a power-up you have just obtained. It can range from serene, to chaotic, and to dark. Not to mention the classic Mario Bros songs you will hear, which will no doubt give you the feeling of nostalgia. The replay value is quite high until you get to the point of beating the game over and over again. If only Nintendo had a way to add extra content to their games threw downloads, the possibilities for this would be almost endless, but once again Nintendo delivers a great game with Mario in it (Well, till Smash Bros. Brawl is out)
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