This is one of a series of articles describing in depth the product that we sell. The reason for these articles is to help you make a more informed decision when purchasing accessories for your photographic needs. If you still have questions about this product after reading this article please feel free to contact us.
The T-Mount system was developed by Tamron in 1957. A common misconception is that the T stands for thread or threaded, but it actually stands for Tamron. The system was developed with the idea of standardizing the mount for 35mm SLR (Single Lens Reflex) cameras lenses. It was thought that the system would reduce costs because photograpers would need only a few lenses and a number of inexpensive adapters to be able to use these lenses on different brands of cameras.
While the idea sounded good on paper, it did not gain wide popularity among lens manufacturers, most likely because they did not like the prospect of selling fewer lenses. The system did catch on however as a way to attach SLR cameras to telescopes, microscopes, enlargers, and bellows attachments.
The thread used on T-Mounts, refered to as the T-thread, is a metric thread 42mm in diameter and having a pitch of 0.75mm. This diameter and pitch have become the industry standard. It should be noted the the T-Mount conection is only a mechanical connection; electronic connections such as autofocus ar not transmitted through a T-Mount adapter.
The T-Mount system is a two part adapter to attach your camera to a telescope or microscope. The first piece is specific to your camera and the second piece is specific to the piece of equipment you are attaching the camera to. Where the two peices join is the standardized 42mm thread. At Plumtree Photo we carry the first piece for your camera. It is recomended that you contact the manufacturer of your telescope or other equipment to find the part you will need to attach to that.
9.12.08
Beware to buy eyepiece items
I just find out one seller separate one eyepiece accessory kit to 3 different items for sale. ( eyepiece, filter and case ). I can buy in store about 109.00 plus free shipping. Those items sell for over 250.00 if you buy from him. I already found too many used items sold for over street price. Pls check the price before bid your maximum price
What Telescope is the best
What telescope is the best one for me?
Although there may not be a definitive answer to the question, the choice can be narrowed down. First examining the available options, and then matching one telescope design to the desired applications may achieve this.
Quite often, the purchase of a first telescope is based on little or no information. Unfortunately, the consumer usually ends up with an inadequate telescope. That is, it will not perform to expectations due to its size, poor optical quality, and inadequate mounting. They are very frustrating to use, and can quash any interest the user may have in exploring the night sky. Generally, these are the typical telescopes found in department stores or camera shops. On the other hand, some people “bite off more than they can chew” when purchasing a first telescope. That is, they may purchase a scope that is too big and cumbersome, or too complicated. Invariably, in both circumstances, the telescope often ends up collecting dust in a closet. To help avoid either of the previous scenarios, consider the information and guidelines listed below when searching for a first scope. Although it is true that larger telescopes will amplify the sky-glow in light-polluted areas more so than smaller scopes, they will also amplify the light emitted from the object itself more, thus providing a better view. Essentially, image contrast is the key issue. Larger telescopes can utilize special filters (known as Light Pollution Reduction filters) more effectively than smaller telescopes, the contrast between the sky background and the object is further improved.Larger telescopes will amplify the sky-glow in light-polluted areas more so than smaller scopes, they will also amplify the light emitted from the object itself more, thus providing a better view. Essentially, image contrast is the key issue. Furthermore, because larger telescopes can utilize special filters (known as Light Pollution Reduction filters) more effectively than smaller telescopes, the contrast between the sky background and the object is further improved. What objects do you want to observe?For those who are interested primarily in viewing the brighter objects, such as Jupiter, Saturn, and the Moon, a small telescope is adequate. For example, a 70mm diameter refractor will provide a pleasing view. If fainter, deep space objects, such as galaxies, nebulae, and star clusters are the objects of choice, a telescope with greater light-gathering ability (larger aperture size) is needed. In such instances, common choices by the novice are 4.5" to 6" diameter reflectors, or 90mm to 100mm diameter refractors, which will provide better views. Overall, however, all things being equal, the larger the aperture size, the brighter and more detailed the object will appear.
Although there may not be a definitive answer to the question, the choice can be narrowed down. First examining the available options, and then matching one telescope design to the desired applications may achieve this.
Quite often, the purchase of a first telescope is based on little or no information. Unfortunately, the consumer usually ends up with an inadequate telescope. That is, it will not perform to expectations due to its size, poor optical quality, and inadequate mounting. They are very frustrating to use, and can quash any interest the user may have in exploring the night sky. Generally, these are the typical telescopes found in department stores or camera shops. On the other hand, some people “bite off more than they can chew” when purchasing a first telescope. That is, they may purchase a scope that is too big and cumbersome, or too complicated. Invariably, in both circumstances, the telescope often ends up collecting dust in a closet. To help avoid either of the previous scenarios, consider the information and guidelines listed below when searching for a first scope. Although it is true that larger telescopes will amplify the sky-glow in light-polluted areas more so than smaller scopes, they will also amplify the light emitted from the object itself more, thus providing a better view. Essentially, image contrast is the key issue. Larger telescopes can utilize special filters (known as Light Pollution Reduction filters) more effectively than smaller telescopes, the contrast between the sky background and the object is further improved.Larger telescopes will amplify the sky-glow in light-polluted areas more so than smaller scopes, they will also amplify the light emitted from the object itself more, thus providing a better view. Essentially, image contrast is the key issue. Furthermore, because larger telescopes can utilize special filters (known as Light Pollution Reduction filters) more effectively than smaller telescopes, the contrast between the sky background and the object is further improved. What objects do you want to observe?For those who are interested primarily in viewing the brighter objects, such as Jupiter, Saturn, and the Moon, a small telescope is adequate. For example, a 70mm diameter refractor will provide a pleasing view. If fainter, deep space objects, such as galaxies, nebulae, and star clusters are the objects of choice, a telescope with greater light-gathering ability (larger aperture size) is needed. In such instances, common choices by the novice are 4.5" to 6" diameter reflectors, or 90mm to 100mm diameter refractors, which will provide better views. Overall, however, all things being equal, the larger the aperture size, the brighter and more detailed the object will appear.
Celestron Powerseeker 60EQ Telescope
As soon as I brought it home I took it out of the box and gasped in awe. It was a high quality peice that looked great. This model has an equatorial mount so you can synchronize it with the celestial pole(poloaris) and it gives you the ability to track objects across the sky.It has a large solid tripod that can be adjusted easily. The two lenses it comes with can magnify objects either 45 or 125 times. When I first took the telescope out with my dad we found the moon and I was amazed at what I could see on the lunar surface at just 45 times magnifacation! The moon took up nearly the entire field of vision at lowest magnifacation and the detail was amazing!Using the other lens was even better I could see craters the maria and all sorts of amazing things. Just a few days ago I used my Night Sky magazine(which is a great magazine by the way) and was able to find Saturn for it is high in the sky right by the beehive cluster and close to Gemini right now. After a few minutes of searching through the low power eyepiece I found it. A bright blob of golden light in the eypiece.Hands trembling I carfully adjusted the focusing nobs and I saw it. Saturn in all its glory was in my eypeice. I could just make out the rings and though it was small it was clear and sharp. I hurredly popped that lens out and put in the more powerful one and I saw Saturn in even more detail. I could see the Cassini division! Fortunetly the atmosphere was coraperating so I could see somthing most would need a large reflector to see. I was amazing and I could see it with so small a telescope. And in my Night Sky magazine it says in the March/April issue that you can see nebulae,galaxies,clusters and amazing things in just low magnifacations such as 30 or 50 times. I can even see M41(the beehive cluster) in just binoculars! I saw that cluster when I was looking for saturn.So if you see this telescpope even at 50 or a 100 dollars buy it and you wont be disapointed.
TELESCOPES
The key to purchasing a good telescope is understand what a telescope really does - not what it does not do. Telescopes do not use magnifying lenses to make distant stars and planets visible. Magnifying lenses do nothing to help you see the sky. A telescope does one thing only - it gathers light! The sun is so bright even distant planets get a good dose of light and they reflect it back. So much reflected light, it makes them appear as stars. The larger the opening of a telescope the more light it gathers and the better the image a person can see when the light is concentrated into one spot. A telescope concentrates this light in one of two ways. Light is gathered either through a lense in the front of it (Refractor type), or via a mirror in the end of it which is curved in such away it reflects it back onto a concentrated spot on a smaller second mirror which then sends it out through the eye piece (Reflector type).
Astronomy items listed anonimously foreign countries
Buying telescope accessories and other optics on Ebay can be a great way to get excellent equipment at low prices. But beware of listings that have all the "look and feel" of a USA seller when in fact they are foreign. Recently I bought an item that was listed as being in Buffalo, NY. When I won the auction, I was directed to send my $$ to a Canadian address. When I did so, the merchandise arrived with postage and origination in Hong Kong!
I am not implying that anything shady was ongoing. My item was as advertised. But I would have been up the creek without a paddle if the auction was a scam. You cannot reclaim lost money from a seller on the other side of the world. Ebay has no rule requiring foreign sellers to disclose their product's shipping point or where their office is located.
My advice? If the item is more money than you can afford to lose, let's say $50. Email the seller before you bid and ascertain that it is in the USA. If not, and you have a very high feedback rating, insist the seller send you the merchandise first, and then pay when it arrives.
Afterall, it is not carved in stone than payment must precede shipping of goods. Mutual trust is what keeps Ebay working.
I am not implying that anything shady was ongoing. My item was as advertised. But I would have been up the creek without a paddle if the auction was a scam. You cannot reclaim lost money from a seller on the other side of the world. Ebay has no rule requiring foreign sellers to disclose their product's shipping point or where their office is located.
My advice? If the item is more money than you can afford to lose, let's say $50. Email the seller before you bid and ascertain that it is in the USA. If not, and you have a very high feedback rating, insist the seller send you the merchandise first, and then pay when it arrives.
Afterall, it is not carved in stone than payment must precede shipping of goods. Mutual trust is what keeps Ebay working.
Telescope Buying Guide
1. As the observer you will need to answer the following questions
What do I want to use the telescope for? Daytime? Nightime? Sun? Planets? Comets? Stars? Galaxies?
Where will I be using it? City? Suburbs? Country?
Will I be carrying it often? Will I be transporting it often?
Will I be taking night-time pictures with it?
Will I be using it mostly for fun or for some amateur scientific exploration?
2. Background for the questions
If you will be carrying it often you will need to decide how much weight is sufficient to tire you out. Twenty-five pounds is enough to tire out anyone if it's more than 30 yards from the car or home. If you want it for sports events or nature photography then it better be very light.
The fainter the object is that you want to observer the larger the primary lens or mirror should be. Also if there is a fair amount of light pollution, there might be too much light scatter to make some object visible at all.
The mount and optical design are important, but these are secondary to the light gathering capabilities of the telescope and the magnification capabilities of the eye-piece system.
Decide whether you will be carrying the telescope once a day or evening or whether you can keep it setup in one place for a while. Setting up a telescope takes a bit of time.
Galileo had a telescope that was weaker than some of the small finder scopes attached to the larger telescopes - so any telescope on the market today can be used for fun or science.
3. How to make your choice
Observing Sun Spots (indirectly!!!) can be done with a small refractor (1 1/2" - 40x) bought at a children's store - provided you have a good projector attached.
Most night-time observing requires less than 200x magnification, so if you plan to carry your telescope and mount around go for the largest telescope and mount you can carry. For the average person this would be in the 3" to 5" range for the primary mirror. Some of the lower end telescopes are named "sporting" scopes.
If you plan to do a lot of night-time city observing and you won't be travelling regularly with your telescope, buy the largest telescope you can. This would be anywhere in the range of 6" to 16".
4. New or used
You can find some great deals for used equipment, but you can also find some great deals for broken used equipment. Even new equipment might have bolts that are too tight or too loose, or a mount where one leg doesn't slide out properly. You need to be aware of all the moving pieces and make sure the system works as a complete tool. Purchasing without touching should be discouraged. And at least there needs to be full disclosure of problems and a return policy.
When buying it, remember to ask: Can I carry it as I will during my viewing sessions? Is it powerful enough for the viewing I want to be doing? Is it easy to setup and take down if I am not leaving it in one place?
5. Eye-pieces
The eye-piece is what gives you the magnification. You calculate the magnification of the system by dividing the focal length of the primary telescope mirror/lens by the focal length of the eye-piece . For example a telescope primary with a 2000 mm focal length and an eye-piece with a 20 mm focal length with produce a magnification of 100x.
NOTE WELL: Unless you have bought a super-scope and you will be observing from the top of a mountain beside a tranquil body of water, during a power-grid failure, don't waist your money on an eye-piece that promises to deliver more than 300x magnification with your primary mirror/lens.
6. Having fun
I promise you that once you look at Jupiter or Saturn, or look at a projection of a Sun spot you will be hooked on Astronomy. Don't kill the passion that you have by going overboard with a top-of-the-line system right off the bat. A system that takes too long to setup or is too heavy to move or carry, or even one that is too expensive may be a quick reason to stop observing. There stars have been there for a billion years - they'll wait for you to make a good decision on a first telescope.
7. Checklist
main telescope (size based on carrying, viewing)
several lenses giving you some maginfication possibilities for 40x, 80x, 120x
a rugged mount like Alt-Az for viewing or Equatorial for star tracking or photography
What do I want to use the telescope for? Daytime? Nightime? Sun? Planets? Comets? Stars? Galaxies?
Where will I be using it? City? Suburbs? Country?
Will I be carrying it often? Will I be transporting it often?
Will I be taking night-time pictures with it?
Will I be using it mostly for fun or for some amateur scientific exploration?
2. Background for the questions
If you will be carrying it often you will need to decide how much weight is sufficient to tire you out. Twenty-five pounds is enough to tire out anyone if it's more than 30 yards from the car or home. If you want it for sports events or nature photography then it better be very light.
The fainter the object is that you want to observer the larger the primary lens or mirror should be. Also if there is a fair amount of light pollution, there might be too much light scatter to make some object visible at all.
The mount and optical design are important, but these are secondary to the light gathering capabilities of the telescope and the magnification capabilities of the eye-piece system.
Decide whether you will be carrying the telescope once a day or evening or whether you can keep it setup in one place for a while. Setting up a telescope takes a bit of time.
Galileo had a telescope that was weaker than some of the small finder scopes attached to the larger telescopes - so any telescope on the market today can be used for fun or science.
3. How to make your choice
Observing Sun Spots (indirectly!!!) can be done with a small refractor (1 1/2" - 40x) bought at a children's store - provided you have a good projector attached.
Most night-time observing requires less than 200x magnification, so if you plan to carry your telescope and mount around go for the largest telescope and mount you can carry. For the average person this would be in the 3" to 5" range for the primary mirror. Some of the lower end telescopes are named "sporting" scopes.
If you plan to do a lot of night-time city observing and you won't be travelling regularly with your telescope, buy the largest telescope you can. This would be anywhere in the range of 6" to 16".
4. New or used
You can find some great deals for used equipment, but you can also find some great deals for broken used equipment. Even new equipment might have bolts that are too tight or too loose, or a mount where one leg doesn't slide out properly. You need to be aware of all the moving pieces and make sure the system works as a complete tool. Purchasing without touching should be discouraged. And at least there needs to be full disclosure of problems and a return policy.
When buying it, remember to ask: Can I carry it as I will during my viewing sessions? Is it powerful enough for the viewing I want to be doing? Is it easy to setup and take down if I am not leaving it in one place?
5. Eye-pieces
The eye-piece is what gives you the magnification. You calculate the magnification of the system by dividing the focal length of the primary telescope mirror/lens by the focal length of the eye-piece . For example a telescope primary with a 2000 mm focal length and an eye-piece with a 20 mm focal length with produce a magnification of 100x.
NOTE WELL: Unless you have bought a super-scope and you will be observing from the top of a mountain beside a tranquil body of water, during a power-grid failure, don't waist your money on an eye-piece that promises to deliver more than 300x magnification with your primary mirror/lens.
6. Having fun
I promise you that once you look at Jupiter or Saturn, or look at a projection of a Sun spot you will be hooked on Astronomy. Don't kill the passion that you have by going overboard with a top-of-the-line system right off the bat. A system that takes too long to setup or is too heavy to move or carry, or even one that is too expensive may be a quick reason to stop observing. There stars have been there for a billion years - they'll wait for you to make a good decision on a first telescope.
7. Checklist
main telescope (size based on carrying, viewing)
several lenses giving you some maginfication possibilities for 40x, 80x, 120x
a rugged mount like Alt-Az for viewing or Equatorial for star tracking or photography
TELESCOPES FOR KIDS
Need some advice on which is the best scope to buy for your budding astronomer. At TaxiMarket, we've sold more telescopes and accessories than any other eBay dealer. With more than 35,000 positive feedbacks, we're here to help.
Kids 6 - 11
We've got little telescopes for little people. For our youngest stargazers, we recommend smaller and simpler telescopes that anyone can use. Of course, very young children are going to need supervision with any telescope, but these telescopes are so easy to use that even the youngest children will have a great time exploring the universe.
80mm Portable Telescopes -- no doubt this is the best telescope for young kids. Portable, light-weight, and easy to set up, this telescope is not just a toy. It provides very nice views of the Moon, Saturn's rings, Jupiter and much more. Plus it is ideal for daytime use -- you'd be surprised the fun things your kids will do with the scopes during the day! Comes with a carrying case.
50mm Telescope -- if you're on a tight budget, consider a basic 50mm telescope. This is the "classic" first scope for a young child, and is fairly light weight and easy to handle. Comes included with a full-size tripod, so the little ones may need some help setting
Kids 11 - 13
For older kids there are more options. The trick here is to get a scope you're older children will use and learn to love, without buying something so big and complex that they'll put it in the closet and never use it again. The scopes we highlight here are easy-to use, yet still powerful enough to give great eye-popping space views.
3 Inch Reflector Telescope -- We love our great 3 inch reflector telescopes -- a scope big enough to get them excited about astronomy, but still easy enough to handle and have a ton of fun.
80mm Portable Telescopes -- True, this portable telescope is great for little kids, but it is also an excellent scope for pre-teens. It is so portable (and comes with a carrying case) that it is perfect for stashing in the trunk or taking on camping trips, summer vacations or over to a friend's house.
90mm Portable Telescope -- This is really the "best buy" telescope for kids of all ages. This 90mm is extremely powerful, but still simple to set-up and use. Pre-teens and teens alike will have hours of unsupervised space viewing with this great instrument. As an added bonus, with right-side-up viewing, it is ideal for daytime use as a spotting scope.
Kids 14 & up
Spaced crazed teens will flip over our larger 4.5" telescopes. These are among our favorites for adults too. With teens who ware more serious about astronomy, you're ready to tackle a telescope that takes a little more effort and patience in order to use, but payoff with incredible views and higher-end functionality like star tracking. A little less bulky, but nearly as powerful, check out the 70mm refractor -- a great value buy.
4.5 Inch Telescopes -- Well, this is a serious telescope for serious young people. But if your teenager wants to explore the heavens and have an instrument that will last a lifetime, we recommend this terrific telescope.
70mm Telescope -- Probably the most well-rounded refractor telescope we offer, the 70mm gives great views both at night and during the day. But it is a serious astronomer's instrument with an "equatorial mounting" that lets you track the stars as they move through the night sky. Your kids will love it.
90mm Portable Telescope -- This is really the "best buy" telescope for kids of all ages. This 90mm is extremely powerful, but still simple to set-up and use. Pre-teens and teens alike will have hours of unsupervised space viewing with this great instrument. As an added bonus, with right-side-up viewing, it is ideal for daytime use as a spotting scope.
Be sure to visit the TaxiMarket eBay Store for great values on telescopes from eBay's #1 telescope dealer.
Kids 6 - 11
We've got little telescopes for little people. For our youngest stargazers, we recommend smaller and simpler telescopes that anyone can use. Of course, very young children are going to need supervision with any telescope, but these telescopes are so easy to use that even the youngest children will have a great time exploring the universe.
80mm Portable Telescopes -- no doubt this is the best telescope for young kids. Portable, light-weight, and easy to set up, this telescope is not just a toy. It provides very nice views of the Moon, Saturn's rings, Jupiter and much more. Plus it is ideal for daytime use -- you'd be surprised the fun things your kids will do with the scopes during the day! Comes with a carrying case.
50mm Telescope -- if you're on a tight budget, consider a basic 50mm telescope. This is the "classic" first scope for a young child, and is fairly light weight and easy to handle. Comes included with a full-size tripod, so the little ones may need some help setting
Kids 11 - 13
For older kids there are more options. The trick here is to get a scope you're older children will use and learn to love, without buying something so big and complex that they'll put it in the closet and never use it again. The scopes we highlight here are easy-to use, yet still powerful enough to give great eye-popping space views.
3 Inch Reflector Telescope -- We love our great 3 inch reflector telescopes -- a scope big enough to get them excited about astronomy, but still easy enough to handle and have a ton of fun.
80mm Portable Telescopes -- True, this portable telescope is great for little kids, but it is also an excellent scope for pre-teens. It is so portable (and comes with a carrying case) that it is perfect for stashing in the trunk or taking on camping trips, summer vacations or over to a friend's house.
90mm Portable Telescope -- This is really the "best buy" telescope for kids of all ages. This 90mm is extremely powerful, but still simple to set-up and use. Pre-teens and teens alike will have hours of unsupervised space viewing with this great instrument. As an added bonus, with right-side-up viewing, it is ideal for daytime use as a spotting scope.
Kids 14 & up
Spaced crazed teens will flip over our larger 4.5" telescopes. These are among our favorites for adults too. With teens who ware more serious about astronomy, you're ready to tackle a telescope that takes a little more effort and patience in order to use, but payoff with incredible views and higher-end functionality like star tracking. A little less bulky, but nearly as powerful, check out the 70mm refractor -- a great value buy.
4.5 Inch Telescopes -- Well, this is a serious telescope for serious young people. But if your teenager wants to explore the heavens and have an instrument that will last a lifetime, we recommend this terrific telescope.
70mm Telescope -- Probably the most well-rounded refractor telescope we offer, the 70mm gives great views both at night and during the day. But it is a serious astronomer's instrument with an "equatorial mounting" that lets you track the stars as they move through the night sky. Your kids will love it.
90mm Portable Telescope -- This is really the "best buy" telescope for kids of all ages. This 90mm is extremely powerful, but still simple to set-up and use. Pre-teens and teens alike will have hours of unsupervised space viewing with this great instrument. As an added bonus, with right-side-up viewing, it is ideal for daytime use as a spotting scope.
Be sure to visit the TaxiMarket eBay Store for great values on telescopes from eBay's #1 telescope dealer.
A Short Biography
Carl Zeiss (September 11, 1816 – December 3, 1888) was an optician commonly known for the company he founded, Zeiss. Zeiss himself also made a few contributions to lens manufacturing that have aided the modern production of lenses. Raised in Weimar, Germany, he became a notable lens maker in the 1840s when he created high quality lenses that were "wide open", or in other words, had a very large aperture range that allowed for very clear images. He did this in the city of Jena at a self opened workshop, where he started his lens making career. At first his lenses were only used in the production of microscopes but when cameras were invented, his company (Zeiss) began manufacturing high quality lenses for cameras. He died on December 3, 1888 in Jena Germany, the very place that he began his life of lenses.
Today, the company he founded produces some of the finest quality opticals available in the world. The Zeiss name is synonymous with quality and state of the art performance. From Nikon to NASA, Zeiss has been branded as a mark of quality craftmanship that is recognized by photographers and scientists the world
Today, the company he founded produces some of the finest quality opticals available in the world. The Zeiss name is synonymous with quality and state of the art performance. From Nikon to NASA, Zeiss has been branded as a mark of quality craftmanship that is recognized by photographers and scientists the world
EDMUND ASTROSCAN 2001
The ORIGINAL Edmund Scientific Astroscan (first called Astroscan 2001) was an inexpensive, high-performance telescope that is easy-to-use, maintenance-free and completely portable. Its wide field of view, beautiful images and ease of use make it an excellent telescope for beginner and expert stargazers alike.The heart of the Astroscan is its 1/8 wave, Edmund USA over coated primary parabolic mirror. (ground, polished and over coated in U.S.A. Edmund Optics Facility to it's optical limit) Where other telescopes use an inexpensive spherical mirror, the Astroscan's parabolic mirror has a deeper, more complex figure that focuses all incoming light rays to the same point. This results in crisp, clear images without any of distorting effects of spherical mirror aberration.The Astroscan is a Newtonian Rich-Field reflector that provides a breathtaking 3 degrees (or six full moons) of field, literally making this instrument an open window to the universe. The wide field-of-view makes finding astronomical objects far easier than with other telescopes and allows for the best views of deep sky objects, or groups of objects, that won't even fit into the fields of other telescopes.With the optional Barlow Lens (available separately or included in the Deluxe Package), you can view Saturn's rings and the Cloud bands of Jupiter. The Astroscan really excels, though, when you turn it to deep sky objects like galaxies, nebulae and star clusters...the Pleiades are truly stunning! At higher magnifications, the Astroscan's images are crisp, clear and powerful.The Astroscan has a unique design that won it the 1976 Industrial Design Award. Its creative design has eliminated the cumbersome and complicated mounts typical of most telescopes. Simply place its padded base on any firm, flat surface and you are immediately ready to observe. Its motions are positive and natural, with nothing to tighten or adjust. It's simple enough for a child to use the first time out.In 2000 Edmund Scientific was purchased by Science Kit and Boreal Laboratories, a western New York based science supply company. Science Kit and Boreal Laboratories is part of a group of companies that provide science supplies to elementary, middle, and high schools as well as colleges and universities. This group falls under the unofficial umbrella "VWR Education" and are owned by VWR International, a multi-national conglomerate with offices in India, China, Europe, Canada and the United States. They are no longer affliated with Edmund Optics Inc. As of 2007, online sales now make up the bulk of Edmund Scientific's revenues. The company still sells telescopes, microscopes, surplus optics, magnets and fresnel lenses, but the emphasis is on science-themed toys, novelty items, gifts, and gadgets
Quick Guide on Fraud Auctions for New Ebay'ers
Here's a quick guide on "red flags" to look for in fraud auctions (typically the higher priced auctions). It's fairly easy to detect these frauds and report them to Ebay if you know some simple things to watch for. 5 simple Red Flags... 1. User ID kept private. 2. Contact seller by an email link before bidding or for info (not through Ebay system) in the text of the description. This is pretty much a DEAD give-away it's fraud! 3. Very cheap or free shipping for large heavy items. 4. "One day" auction only, vice for a week or so. 5. Photos and descriptions were previously seen from other REAL auctions. There are LOTS more fraud warnings but these 5 should be enough to keep you from bidding on the item. See other guides here about scams, etc. they explain quite a bit of the details but again, these simple 5 are serious red flags. Also be a good Ebay'er and use the Security Center button on the bottom of the auction page to inform Ebay of the fraud auction. And ya know what they say... if it's too good to be true, it probably is!
Blue 3" Reflector Telescope Kids Present Toy No Reserve
THIS TELESCOPE COMES LOADED WITH THE FOLLOWING FEATURES & ACCESSORIES:
76mm (3 inches) concave objective mirror
Focal Length : 700mm
20mm Eyepiece
12mm Eyepiece
4mm Eyepiece
2x Barlow Lens
Moon Filter
Large Collapseable Tripod with Accessory Tray
Alt-Az Type Telescope Mount
Dust Free Eyepiece Cleaning Cloth
Map of the Surface of the Moon & Giant Solar System Poster
76mm (3 inches) concave objective mirror
Focal Length : 700mm
20mm Eyepiece
12mm Eyepiece
4mm Eyepiece
2x Barlow Lens
Moon Filter
Large Collapseable Tripod with Accessory Tray
Alt-Az Type Telescope Mount
Dust Free Eyepiece Cleaning Cloth
Map of the Surface of the Moon & Giant Solar System Poster
Telescopes 101 -- A BEGINNER'S GUIDE
Buying a telescope is easy! Especially when you have help. If you want to learn a little about telescopes and space, this "Telescopes 101" guide should get your mind grounded before you start exploring the stars. So let's learn. . . .
Telescopes make space objects look brighter
That's basically it, and it's the most important thing about telescopes. Telescopes gather light from space,and blast it into your eyes so you can get a fabulous, astonishing look at star clusters, dual-star systems, distant galaxies, and details of the Moon or Saturn's rings in ways you can never see with the naked eye because the objects are too small and way to dark.
Telescopes make space objects look bigger too
Yes, telescopes magnify objects, that's true. But magnification is really not that important. Just a little bit of magnification is enough to see all kinds of great space stuff. But boosting light gathering power is where it's at in buying a telescope The more light you can suck down from the sky, the more you'll see. Don't worry about magnification, just all telescopes have enough of that -- go for the light gathering power.
Bigger is better
At least in telescopes, that's true. The bigger the main opening of the tube, then the more light the telescope can collect. More light means you see more. The size of the telescope's main opening is called the 'aperture" and it is typically measured in inches or millimeters. In just about all cases, the larger the aperture, or opening, the better the space viewing will be. Our biggest telescope has an 8" opening and is great for backyard observing.
Mirrors vs Glass
How does it all work? Well, telescopes gather straight beams of light and focus them on a single point. This magnifies what you're looking at and makes it seem larger and brighter. Telescopes either use a round, bowl shaped mirror to focus the light, or a glass lens to do the job, or a combination of both. Depending on what you're looking for, you might consider one or the other.
Telescopes make space objects look brighter
That's basically it, and it's the most important thing about telescopes. Telescopes gather light from space,and blast it into your eyes so you can get a fabulous, astonishing look at star clusters, dual-star systems, distant galaxies, and details of the Moon or Saturn's rings in ways you can never see with the naked eye because the objects are too small and way to dark.
Telescopes make space objects look bigger too
Yes, telescopes magnify objects, that's true. But magnification is really not that important. Just a little bit of magnification is enough to see all kinds of great space stuff. But boosting light gathering power is where it's at in buying a telescope The more light you can suck down from the sky, the more you'll see. Don't worry about magnification, just all telescopes have enough of that -- go for the light gathering power.
Bigger is better
At least in telescopes, that's true. The bigger the main opening of the tube, then the more light the telescope can collect. More light means you see more. The size of the telescope's main opening is called the 'aperture" and it is typically measured in inches or millimeters. In just about all cases, the larger the aperture, or opening, the better the space viewing will be. Our biggest telescope has an 8" opening and is great for backyard observing.
Mirrors vs Glass
How does it all work? Well, telescopes gather straight beams of light and focus them on a single point. This magnifies what you're looking at and makes it seem larger and brighter. Telescopes either use a round, bowl shaped mirror to focus the light, or a glass lens to do the job, or a combination of both. Depending on what you're looking for, you might consider one or the other.
Your first telescope
Buying your first telescope can be a terrible experience. There are so many out there. And so different. And all these numbers. Want to know what to look for and avoid buying the marketing humbug instead of the real thing? Read on if you want to know.Size matters, honeyFirst of all realise what is the main function of any telescope. Mind you it's not magnifying - even if the marketing people would like you to believe so. No - the telescope's main function is to gather light. Grasp as many photons coming from that faint and whispy nebula dozens of thousands of light years away. Or the ones coming from a galaxy billions light years away. Some of these objects are the size of the moon or even a lot larger. So ... you don' t need to magnify them. It's the difference between your eye's pupil (dilated at night to something in range of 8mm) and the telescope objective or mirror diameter (also known as the aperture). It is this diameter that is responsible for gathering light and pumping it to your eye (and as for the pumping.... never attempt to look at the sun with any kind of device that has not been designed for such purpose. Telescopes, binoculars will pump all this energy down into your brain frying the eye on the way there). And if you see a 70mm telescope advertised to magnify 700x (even, or especially when it is outfitted with barlows and eyepieces to that effect) go elsewhere. A very simple rule of thumb for maximum magnification is that for any given aperture the maximum magnification you can get on a good night is slightly more than twice the aperture diameter in mm (three times for good and pricey apochromatic refractors). So that 70mm scope will go up to about 150x magnification. After that you will just see a bigger blob with less details.The next big thing - who you are, where you are, and what you want to look atAnd this is where simplicity ends... after all, there are so many different types of scopes out there. Various constructions. Various designs. So what is the next determining factor. It is what you want to do with the scope. If it is to go after that good looking neighbour buy small azimuth mounted refractor. It will also show the Moon and it's craters, and if you are lucky you might spot Jupiter and the galilean moons before they put you in for spying on other people. But if you are serious about looking at the sky think of how you want to observe. Are you going to look at the sky, or do you want to eventually photograph it. Where are you observing from. Do you have to drive 50 miles to get a clear, black sky. Or do Milky Way shines in your backyard? Looking at these issues will help you decide first about the mount of the telescope and then on the type. If you live in a city, and need to drive to countryside to see black sky you will want a portable telescope of smaller size, and less weight. If you are lucky to have Milky Way as the only neighbour in your backyard you may be better off with something much larger. If you do not plan on doing any astrophotography - a huge aperture telescope on a dobsonian mout is the best way to go (and for the citydwellers you might consider truss-tube dobsonian which will not make you choose between a scope and friends or family). If, on the other hand, you want to go into astrophotography eventually - think about equatorially mounted scope that you can add motors to at some point. Nice looking GoTo telescopes on the altazimuth mount (the fork type, or assymetrical fork) are... suprise... not so great for astrophotography if they don't come with something called equatorial wedge, and... not so great for visual observations since you pay huge lot of bucks for the electronics and get a small glass to go with the 40,000 object database (out of which you may actually be able to see 50 or 100 objects). So you are probably better of with a simple reflector (for visual) or refractor (for photographic) on a simple equatorial mount. Just make sure it is a sturdy mount. The best telescope on a flimsy mount will show you nothing but wobbling, hopping and whizzing blips of light with no sense.Long, medium or shortAnd finally the construction. If you want high contrast, high magnification images of planets - forget newtonians and get a long refractor or a maksutov. But also forget the deep sky wonders. But remember - there are less then ten interesting objects you will be able to observe visually with an average telescope of this type. So, unless you are are planetary freak go elsewhere. If you do not care for high contrast, but want to SEE more of the deep space - buy aperture, buy a newtonian reflector. It is usually huge, uncompromising, making your trips to the country in one car a thing of a past ;). There is also a third way - a short refractor. These have been either expensive or optically inferior in the past but recent technological advances made designing them easier and the new ones are usually great - more compact than either long refractors (with usually tha same amount of chromatic distortion) or newtons (with better constrast and sharpness than newtons). And if you have a heap of money and want a big and compact telescope consider a Schmidt-Cassegrain. But only when you know that spending nights outside is something you really wnat to do for the rest of your life :)
Beginners Guide to buying a decent telescope.
First Things FirstThis guide is not going to be a long extensive look at what a telsecope is, and what you can see. It's just a buying guide - You should always do your own research before attempting to buy a telescope. astromart is an excellent starting point. I know allot of established amateur astronomers will tell you that aperture is king so get the biggest scope you can offord. While this is true it's not always a good idea to go out and buy that 8" scope right off the bat. First off you should do some research and learn about what your going to be buying before you go out and spend your hard earned money. If your anything like me your anxious to get started and take that first look, or perhaps that first look in a long time at the wonders that our universe holds. Stop right now and breath - it's not going anywhere and you have the rest of your life to find interesting objects in the sky. First rule of thumb - Avoid those no name telescopes you see listed all over the place. They are cheap for a reason and the old saying "You get what you pay for" is true x2 in amateur astronomy. But there is a bend in this rule. Most decent used scopes with a brand names such as Orion, Meade, Celestron, and even Vixon will go for a fraction of their original cost. I have managed to pick up a 10" Orion dob for just under $200 which is a fraction of it's orignal $650 price tag. Best thing to do is shop around, and do be to quick to bid on the first decent scope that comes along. Take your time because there is always a better deal just around the corner. When you finally settle on a target check out the reviews before even attempting to bid and make sure that what your getting is in fact worth your time. Read the description carefully and ask allot of questions - Besure that every part is there, and the person actually knows what they are talking about. I can't tell you how many times that I have bought a telescope and when it arrived I was missing parts! In a few cases I have order from people either new, or have no idea about what they are talking about. Always make sure that you are getting what you are paying for before you bid. What size scope is best for the beginner?In all honesty a 4.5" dobsonian telescope provides decent views of the planets and a few other objects. However it does not provide enough detail for someone to remain interested for long periods of time. A 5" or better yet a 6" will offer you some very vivid views with some decent eye pieces that will dazzle you for quite sometime. And of course anything larger will gather more light, and therefore offer you better, deeper, and bigger views! But don't be so hasty - if you cannot afford a larger scope go with what you can afford because once you see what it can do you will cherish it. For example I have a 60mm Tasco that I bought for $20 and with it can identify Saturn by it's rings.While and or pershaps after you have purchased you telescope you should be looking at some decent eye pieces (again research is key). I reccement for the beginner a 25mm for wider views and for finding those hard to find objects; a 10mm for once you have found what you want to look at, and a x2 Barlow for doubling the power of your eye pieces. Most scopes will come with these or simular pieces, but just in case these will suffice in the beginning. Lastly don't bid too soon - all your doing is driving up the price. Wait, and then wait some more. Just because your not winning right now, does not mean that you will not win in the end.
How to Buy a Telescope on eBay
This guide is aimed at the beginner who is looking to buy his or her first telescope. I'm assuming you know little about telescopes. My mission is to give you as much information as I can as quickly as I can so I'll be revising and adding information as I have the opportunity to edit it. Let's get started.
There are two kinds of telescopes: refractors and reflectors. Both come in a number of variations, some of which are quite exotic and expensive.
All telescopes have three key components that each have a key measurement: The objective (and its aperture), the tube (and its focal length) and the eyepiece (and its focal length).
There are two other important components: The finder scope is a smaller (but wider view) scope attached to the main tube to help in initially locating objects. Astronomical scopes require a mount, which is usually connected to a tripod, although spotting scopes and monoculars are frequently handheld. An astronomical telescope without a mount (but sometimes with an eyepiece and/or finder scope attached) is called an optical tube assembly (OTA).
The aperture (size) of the OBJECTIVE determines the light gathering power of the telescope. The objective is the big lens on the front end of a refractor and the big mirror at the back end of a reflector.
A REFRACTOR is the "classic" design that probably comes to your mind when you hear the word "telescope". Big lens on one end, (the objective) and a little lens at the other end. This little lens is the eyepiece through which you view what you're looking at. This is the design that is said to have been invented by Gallileo.
In the past I've said to "Forget about refractors." That's because it's surprisingly difficult and expensive to make a quality refractor. The problem is that the way refractor obectives bend light causes the different wavelengths (i.e., colors) to bend at different angles. This causes a problem called "coma", which is a rainbow aura around objects like stars and planets. Achromat refractors use a second lens to partially correct the coma problem, adding to the cost. The apochromat refractor adds yet another corrective lens at even greater expense. However, if you're particularly interested in viewing the moon and planets (for which refractors excel) as opposed to deep space objects and you have a generous budget, a refractor might be your best choice.
I still believe, however, that a REFLECTOR is the best type of scope for most beginners. The objective in a Newtonian (as in Isaac) relector, the simplest kind, is a mirror at the bottom of a big tube, whose front end is open. The mirror is curved and refects the image back into a secondary mirror suspended near the top of the tube. The secondary mirror reflects the image into an eyepiece that sticks out perpendicular from the main tube near the top of the tube. Yes, the secondary is an obstruction but you don't actually see its silhouette when you look through the eyepiece. It merely dims the overall view.
Here are some quick facts:
Magnification is determined by dividing the focal length of the main tube by the focal length of the eyepiece. (Any good ad will give you the focal length of the tube and any eyepieces included.) For example: A scope has a focal length of 1,000 mm (1 meter, about 39 inches). If you drop in a 25mm eyepiece, magnification will be 40x (1,000 / 25 = 40). Drop in a 10mm eyepiece and magnification will be 100x. You can always buy more eyepieces.
So if magnification is dependent on focal length, what does increased aperture get you? Compare a 4" aperture scope with an 8" aperture scope. If they both have a 1,000 mm focal length with 20 mm eyepieces, they'll both magnify the image by 50 times. However, the 8" scope, with twice the diameter of the 4" scope will give you an image four times brighter. Light gathering ability increases by the square of the radius. Objects that are barely visible in a four inch scope will be quite bright in an eight inch scope. By tradition, the aperture of some kinds of scopes is given in inches while others are measured in millimeters. (One inch = 25.4 mm).
Most scopes use standard 1.25" (width) eyepieces. Different brands and designs can be used interchangeably. Some scopes use 2" eyepieces. These usually have adapters so they can also use 1.25" eyepieces. (Another, less common size is 0.96 inches.)
Despite the outlandish promises that may appear on a scope's box (such outlandish promises being a good indicator that the scope is junk) the maximum usable magnification is about 50x the aperture measured in inches or twice the aperture measured in millimeters. For example, a 5" scope is good for a maximum of about 250x. A 90 mm scope is good for about 180x.
Maximum magnification does not always provide the best view. For a given aperture you can't magically increase the amount of light the scope gathers. What does this mean? The greater the magnification you use, the dimmer the view will be. Think about it: If you take the same amount of light and use it to make a bigger image, the image has to get dimmer.
Forget about seeing views like the gorgeous photos that illustrate the boxes of some scopes. They're generally taken by giant scopes and they're made up by overlaying dozens, sometimes hundreds of repeated exposures. And each exposure may have lasted many minutes or even hours. Remember learning about the rods and cones in your eyes in junior high school science? The rods, being much more numerous and more sensitive to light, provide most of your night vision. But they're much less sensitive to color than the cones are. So the images you will see will be pale with only a hint of color.
If you can't afford to spend at least $200 on a scope consider buying a good pair of 10 x 50 binoculars for as little as half that. (The "10" refers to the magnification, which is usually fixed in binoculars; the "50" refers to the size of the objectives, 50mm.) There are whole books written on naked eye and binocular star gazing and binoculars are a great way to get into the hobby. As a bonus if the interest in astronomy wanes the binos will still be good for hiking, camping, bird watching and so on
There are two kinds of telescopes: refractors and reflectors. Both come in a number of variations, some of which are quite exotic and expensive.
All telescopes have three key components that each have a key measurement: The objective (and its aperture), the tube (and its focal length) and the eyepiece (and its focal length).
There are two other important components: The finder scope is a smaller (but wider view) scope attached to the main tube to help in initially locating objects. Astronomical scopes require a mount, which is usually connected to a tripod, although spotting scopes and monoculars are frequently handheld. An astronomical telescope without a mount (but sometimes with an eyepiece and/or finder scope attached) is called an optical tube assembly (OTA).
The aperture (size) of the OBJECTIVE determines the light gathering power of the telescope. The objective is the big lens on the front end of a refractor and the big mirror at the back end of a reflector.
A REFRACTOR is the "classic" design that probably comes to your mind when you hear the word "telescope". Big lens on one end, (the objective) and a little lens at the other end. This little lens is the eyepiece through which you view what you're looking at. This is the design that is said to have been invented by Gallileo.
In the past I've said to "Forget about refractors." That's because it's surprisingly difficult and expensive to make a quality refractor. The problem is that the way refractor obectives bend light causes the different wavelengths (i.e., colors) to bend at different angles. This causes a problem called "coma", which is a rainbow aura around objects like stars and planets. Achromat refractors use a second lens to partially correct the coma problem, adding to the cost. The apochromat refractor adds yet another corrective lens at even greater expense. However, if you're particularly interested in viewing the moon and planets (for which refractors excel) as opposed to deep space objects and you have a generous budget, a refractor might be your best choice.
I still believe, however, that a REFLECTOR is the best type of scope for most beginners. The objective in a Newtonian (as in Isaac) relector, the simplest kind, is a mirror at the bottom of a big tube, whose front end is open. The mirror is curved and refects the image back into a secondary mirror suspended near the top of the tube. The secondary mirror reflects the image into an eyepiece that sticks out perpendicular from the main tube near the top of the tube. Yes, the secondary is an obstruction but you don't actually see its silhouette when you look through the eyepiece. It merely dims the overall view.
Here are some quick facts:
Magnification is determined by dividing the focal length of the main tube by the focal length of the eyepiece. (Any good ad will give you the focal length of the tube and any eyepieces included.) For example: A scope has a focal length of 1,000 mm (1 meter, about 39 inches). If you drop in a 25mm eyepiece, magnification will be 40x (1,000 / 25 = 40). Drop in a 10mm eyepiece and magnification will be 100x. You can always buy more eyepieces.
So if magnification is dependent on focal length, what does increased aperture get you? Compare a 4" aperture scope with an 8" aperture scope. If they both have a 1,000 mm focal length with 20 mm eyepieces, they'll both magnify the image by 50 times. However, the 8" scope, with twice the diameter of the 4" scope will give you an image four times brighter. Light gathering ability increases by the square of the radius. Objects that are barely visible in a four inch scope will be quite bright in an eight inch scope. By tradition, the aperture of some kinds of scopes is given in inches while others are measured in millimeters. (One inch = 25.4 mm).
Most scopes use standard 1.25" (width) eyepieces. Different brands and designs can be used interchangeably. Some scopes use 2" eyepieces. These usually have adapters so they can also use 1.25" eyepieces. (Another, less common size is 0.96 inches.)
Despite the outlandish promises that may appear on a scope's box (such outlandish promises being a good indicator that the scope is junk) the maximum usable magnification is about 50x the aperture measured in inches or twice the aperture measured in millimeters. For example, a 5" scope is good for a maximum of about 250x. A 90 mm scope is good for about 180x.
Maximum magnification does not always provide the best view. For a given aperture you can't magically increase the amount of light the scope gathers. What does this mean? The greater the magnification you use, the dimmer the view will be. Think about it: If you take the same amount of light and use it to make a bigger image, the image has to get dimmer.
Forget about seeing views like the gorgeous photos that illustrate the boxes of some scopes. They're generally taken by giant scopes and they're made up by overlaying dozens, sometimes hundreds of repeated exposures. And each exposure may have lasted many minutes or even hours. Remember learning about the rods and cones in your eyes in junior high school science? The rods, being much more numerous and more sensitive to light, provide most of your night vision. But they're much less sensitive to color than the cones are. So the images you will see will be pale with only a hint of color.
If you can't afford to spend at least $200 on a scope consider buying a good pair of 10 x 50 binoculars for as little as half that. (The "10" refers to the magnification, which is usually fixed in binoculars; the "50" refers to the size of the objectives, 50mm.) There are whole books written on naked eye and binocular star gazing and binoculars are a great way to get into the hobby. As a bonus if the interest in astronomy wanes the binos will still be good for hiking, camping, bird watching and so on
LOMO Little Mak Maksutov Reflecting Telescope
Unlike most monoculars, this one is not a refractor, but a Maksutov Gregorian reflector! In the Maksutov-Gregorian design, the light rays from the primary mirror (in the back like a Newt. or other reflectors) converge BEFORE reaching the secondary mirror. The secondary mirror is concave (curved in) and sends the light waves "straight" back to the EP, not allowing them the cross again. This gives a "right side up" image without the use of prisms as in binoculars. The secondary mirror is held by a piece of glass, that would normally be a corrector plate, that is curved outward - not inward line other Maks. - and closes the tube.It size is about 4.5" long, about 40mm in diameter and weighs only 4 ounces. it gives a 4.5 degree FOV. Its aperture and focal length are 30mm and 152mm, respectively.The focuser is on the front near the secondary mirror, not near the EP where you would expect. Having the focuser nearer the EP end would be more convenient, though. The focuser travel is a little more than 3/4 of a turn from one side to the other.The central obstruction caused by the secondary mirror is a little distracting. The obstruction (by measuring from the outside) is more than 50%. This can be moved out of the way by angling the monocular slightly to one side. I find that angling in down moves the slight blur from the secondary far enough away so you can get a clear image. This blur isn't a big problem unless you are looking at an area with a lot of light, like a street light or somewhere.It comes in black or with a blue star chart body, a wrist strap that connects one time to the EP end, and one lens cap for the end with the secondary. It does not come with a case, but I have found that the cloth cellular phone holders, the ones with the fold-over top held in place by velcro, work very nicely for this size monocular.Every successful work of Russian astronomers is associated with the name LOMO®. LOMO has been involved in the development and manufacturing of observatory telescopes of different types for over 65 years. During this time, about 100 different telescopes with mirror diameters ranging from 250mm to 6m have been developed and manufactured by LOMO. Now many LOMO telescopes are used in Russian observatories as well as in Italy, Finland, Chile, China, Turkey, etc. Over the past 2 years LOMO in association with American engineers has developed a new line of recreational telescopes, and spotting scopes, ranging from 30 mm to 254 mm in diameter.
How to Buy a Good Pair of Binoculars
The most important tool for every birder is a good binocular. A high quality binocular can make all the difference in how much you enjoy bird watching. There have been recent improvements in optics that have improved performance but lowered the price of high-quality binoculars. This has led to an increase in the popularity of birding. While watching birds is probably the most demanding use of binoculars and scopes, the basic principals mentioned here remain fairly constant regardless of the purpose. Remember that the factors that determine the best choice of optics will vary with quality and design of the optics, personal preferences of the individual using them and the conditions under which you use your binoculars. Binoculars come in a variety of shapes, sizes and specifications. Most can be used for multiple purposes. Most would be suitable for a number of different activities including birdwatching, sporting events, concerts, star gazing, hiking, fishing and more. Birders are often considered the most demanding users, because they not only want to spot birds but identify them as well. This requires very sharp views so that fine details can be observed. Birds are found in all types of environments, at any time of the day and night and in every kind of weather.First, the image quality must be considered. The design, quality of materials and manufacturing factors are all important as to how well the binoculars will work over any period of time and conditions. Next, How easy are the binoculars to use? This is more subjective since we all have different preferences. We know that we don't want to carry around a five pound binocular, but the differences might not be so obvious when you are comparing optics ranging from 25-40 ounces. Weight is important but ergonomics may be more critical.Durability and weather resistance needs to be defined. Getting out into the field in cold weather to find that your binoculars have fogged up on the inside, can totally ruin an outing. Even though they look good, make sure they are of high quality and will withstand the simple unforeseen hazards that binoculars face. Some very good binoculars can be so delicate, that even a slight bump off the car seat to the floor could knock things out of alignment.Remember that generally the quality/price ratio is usually a good determining factor. You truly do get what we pay for in optics. But we can't all afford the very best. Middle price range optics can be a very good choice for most of us. These may not have all the features of the the most expensive binoculars, but are still very good with only slight differences in viewing.
How to start birdwatching or birding
Birding and birdwatching is the same thing. Bird watching is a recreational pastime which involves watching wild birds in their native habitat. It is great because it doesn't take much to get started. A pair of binoculars, a hat and a field guide. You might also want a notebook you can carry in your pocket (this is a place to record what you see and when you write a description it helps you focus on those characteristics on the bird). There are over 800 species of birds in North America, so wherever you live, there will probably be around 100 species that are easy to find.This is an activity that is for people of all ages. People of all fitness levels can be birders. It is the fastest growing outdoor activity in America. You can have some great fun while making a connection with nature. Birding delivers all the satisfaction of the hunt, even though the prey escapes unharmed. It is great for your health because it gets you outside and walking. It seems effortless because all your attention is on the birds. Birdwatching can unite your family. Parents or grandparents can introduce their children and grandchildren to an interest in nature. If you enjoy being social, it is great. A birder never needs to be lonely. Almost every community has a birding club of some sort and newcomers are always welcome. There are bird watching societies which might offer educational lectures and sponsor trips. But if you enjoy solitude, birdwatching can be an ideal solitary sport. Your mind can settle down and your senses open up.A field guide is a book that has information about birds. It can be just like an expert birder by your side. It can describe and show pictures of birds and tells you what details in each bird to look for. You might want to get a couple, because each books usually has something another doesn't.A hat just needs to shade your eyes. So any hat you own can work just fine. But make sure it doesn't interfere with your binoculars.You can start with whatever binoculars you have. If you don't have any binoculars, get the best binoculars you can afford. Usually, the better the binocular, the more it will cost. But you can find good binoculars in every price range.
Do I Really Need Good Binoculars
I am an avid outdoorsman but I haven’t had the money to buy quality binoculars and have spent most of my hunting life using poor quality optics. It was frustrating to be using lower quality optics and see two birds when I was looking at one.I finally decided to spend some money a get a good pair of optics. I researched the products and found what I hoped was a quality basic pair from Nikon. I trusted the Nikon name and purchased a pair of Nikon Monarch Binoculars. I have been very satisfied with them and the price is very reasonable considering the quality you get.I am amazed at how clear everything is when I look through them. They are lightweight and small which makes it perfect for getting into the back country to hunt. Since purchasing my binoculars, I am surprised at how much more wildlife I am able to see. I am able to identify small birds as well as count points on bull elk from great distances. I never realized how important a good pair of binoculars would be to my outdoor enjoyment until I got a good pair of binoculars.
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